Day-Hike or Backpack Zion’s Narrows: the Top-Down Ultimate Guide

WARNING: Don’t proceed without noting these 5 facts:

The Zion Narrows from the top-down is not a simple hike to execute.

1) Flash floods occur here. They can and will kill you.

You will hear it repeatedly, because this is serious!

2) The Zion Narrows are often CLOSED.

The Park Service shuts it down when flows exceed 120cfs. This most often occurs when snowmelt comes down the canyon in the spring (particularly throughout April and May), but applies any time there’s heavy rain. Don’t be surprised if a late closure spoils your plans.

A top-down permanent closure?

In October of 2018 there was hype in the news about the top-down hike potentially being closed forever. Access to the upper trailhead crosses some private land, and one of the landowners (The Bulloch family) put up no-trespassing signs, forcing the park to stop issuing permits.

The Bullochs have been negotiating to sell the land to the NPS, triggering the closure in an attempt to force a deal. A temporary agreement was made, and later in December of 2019 a more permanent solution was established to protect this section of the Zion Narrows.

3) Day-Hiking is long and strenuous.

Only experienced hikers in excellent condition should attempt to do this in one day. I’m a long distance thru-hiker and marathon runner, and this day exhausted me! You will be walking in water. All. Day. Long.

Backpacking has its own set of challenges, too. There’s nowhere to bail out. Should you get into trouble, you must retrace your steps or continue down the canyon.

4) Permits are required, and not especially easy to get.

Scroll down the page for more details.

5) If you don’t have two vehicles, you’ll need to arrange some kind of shuttle.

High clearance is recommended, but not always necessary.

Is it worth the trouble?

Clearly there’s a lot of red tape here, and it takes a dedicated party to make this happen. Is it even worth it? Maybe. After all, the most dramatic section of the narrows is accessible on a day hike without a permit.

Zion Narrows Top-Down Basics

MAP: Trails Illustrated
PERMITS: REQUIRED
DESIGNATION: Zion National Park (entrance fee required)
BEST SEASONS: June and September
DISTANCE: NPS says 16 miles (Others say 17 or 18 miles – it can sure feel like it!)
WATER: potable below Deep Creek (see article below)
ELEVATION: Chamberlain Ranch (begin) ~5,800ft / Temple of Sinawava (end) ~4,400ft
ACCESS: dirt road: high clearance is recommended but not always necessary. (4wd when wet)
DIRECTIONS: The trailhead at Chamberlain Ranch is reached after driving on the dirt North Fork Road for 17 miles north from Route 9. The North Fork Road is 1.7 miles east of Zion’s East Entrance, or approximately 13 miles west of Mt Carmel Junction.
Try “Zion Narrows Upper Trailhead” on Google Maps.
ROUTE: wet riverbed – social trails occur on the shores.
GUIDEBOOK: Favorite Hikes in & around Zion

Maps

These two maps will give you an idea of the lay of the land. The first image is a picture of the hand-out that the NPS will give you when you receive your permit.

If you plan on exploring more of Zion National Park than just the Narrows, or simply happen to be map junkie like me, then I highly recommend picking up a copy of the Trails Illustrated map.

Death in the Zion Narrows

Just to drive home the point about the risk of floods, here’s some stories about recent deaths.

In September of 2014, a 34 year old man from California died in the Narrows. He was one of two men that started hiking together on an early Saturday morning. Utah experienced huge rainfall that weekend, and the river began to flood. The two were stranded on opposite shores of the river. One was able to swim downstream and find help. The other’s body was found along the Riverside Walk the next day.

In April of 2010, two Nevada men in their early twenties entered the Virgin River Narrows when it was at flood levels. Their illegal, unsanctioned plan entailed building a raft out of logs and rafting down the river. All that’s known for certain is their bodies showed up in the lower stretches of the river a few days later.

Park Service reports that two others died in the Narrows in 1998, but I have no further information on this.

More recently in September of 2015, a group of seven canyoneers perished when a flash flood swept through Zion’s Keyhole Canyon. Though not technically part of the Virgin River Narrows, think about the sheer number involved in this single tragic incident. As a seasonal employee at the North Rim of Grand Canyon, I remember when the news broke about this.

For more about this and other incidents, read the book Death & Rescues in Zion National Park. As of February 2014, the author recorded nine total deaths in the Narrows.

When is the best time to go?

The most pleasant time is in the summer – days are long, more sun gets into the canyon, air temperatures are nice and hot, and the water is warm. Unfortunately, July and August have the highest risk of flash floods!

June

I think June is the best time for this hike, even though air temperatures can be downright hot. It’s best to aim for late June – in the first days of the month you’ll still run a risk of being shut out by the spring’s high-water closures. If there’s been a lot of snow, the entire month has the potential to get closed out too.

September

September is another great time to go. The weather is warm, and the flash-flood inducing thunderstorms tend to simmer down. Consider that you’re more likely to score a permit in September (Versus June).

October

October is good, but starts to get awfully chilly. Come prepared and you’ll be fine. You’ll at least want some neoprene socks, and this is the time of year to start considering additional gear, like dry pants. Foliage should peak early in the month. All the photos on this page were shot on October 2, 2009.

July & August

This is prime time for flash foods! July and August can work out okay, but only if the weather forecast looks phenomenal. Otherwise you’re just rolling the dice with your life! Please be smart, good people have gotten themselves killed this way.

Winter: November, December, January and February

It’s certainly possible to explore the Narrows at this time, but with several limitations.

November and February have the potential to be relatively pleasant, but the water is guaranteed to be cold. You’re in a narrow, dark canyon that won’t get much sun.

Basic Considerations for Winter

Limited daylight is a big concern, especially for day hikers. The Park Service won’t even give you a permit for day trips on the shortest days. Remember that December 21st is the winter solstice – the closer you are to this date, the less daylight you’ll have to work with.

The access at Chamberlain Ranch can get snowed in or especially muddy in the winter. Call the Zion Wilderness Desk or shuttle operators for current conditions.

To sum it up, going from the top-down in winter is not ideal, and potentially impossible (Especially in the case of day-hiking).

Going top-down in the winter is mostly a backpacker’s game.

You’re more likely to score a backpacking permit in the winter, too.

If you’re tempted to go in the winter only because you have an aversion to crowds, remember there’s a permit system in place for this top-down trip. You’re unlikely to see many people until the lower section of the narrows anyway, as bottom-up day-hikers aren’t allowed to go beyond Big Springs.

Going from the bottom-up in winter is a lot more feasible and attractive with the general lack of crowds.

Winter Gear

In addition to the logistic concerns I’ve mentioned above, I’d look into renting a full dry suit, or at least dry pants.

Waterproofing your gear is a valid concern in the Narrows at any time year.

The following local companies offer rental packages that include winter-specific gear like drysuits:

Zion Adventure Company
Zion Outfitter
Zion Rock & Mountain Guides

Imagine the beauty of the icicles cascading down the walls of the canyon.

March, April, and May

It’s not a good idea to plan your hike in March or April. The Narrows are most often closed at this time year because of high flows. May can open up if it’s been a dry winter.

Timely reports on flow rate (CFS) and flash flood potential:

Check out the USGS website for current and historic flows in the Virgin River. If you begin searching their chart for specific dates, the field for “00060 Discharge” will provide the cubic feet per second.

Weather.gov issues a “flash flood potential rating” for many parts of Utah, including Zion National Park.

Getting a permit

Hiking the Narrows from the top-down requires a permit.

You can get a permit to hike it in one day, or you can backpack for a single night in the Narrows. Permits are not issued for more than two days (Or one night). Camping is restricted to designated sites (More on that farther below).

Permit registration is available up to three months prior your hike. Here’s how it works:

First Chance:

On the fifth day of every month at 10:00AM (Mountain Time), permits become available for the following three months.

On January 5th, permits become available through March 31st.

On February 5th, permits through April 30th are now available.

And so on. Here’s a list to simplify it for you:

January hike – apply on November 5th
February hike – apply on December 5th
March hike – apply on January 5th
April hike – apply on February 5th
May hike – apply on March 5th
June hike – apply on April 5th
July hike – apply on May 5th
August hike – apply on June 5th
September hike – apply on July 5th
October hike – apply on August 5th
November hike – apply on September 5th
December hike – apply on October 5th

NPS reports that advance permits are booked “almost immediately” after they’re released for peak-season dates. Good luck!

It’s best to know in advance exactly what you’re looking for on their website, so get familiar with it. The appropriate “resource area” field for day-hiking permits is “Virgin Narrows Dayuse Trail From Top.”

For backpacking, you’ll have to select a specific “Narrows Site” – 1, 3, 5, 9, or 12. Number 12 (High Camp) would personally be my first choice. Look down this page for more about the individual campsites.

Last Chance (Day-hiking only)

Up to seven days before the date of your hike, the Park Service releases more permits for a “Last Minute Drawing.” This is done online and essentially runs the same as the calendar system above.

The online system remains available up to two days before your hike.

It’s possible to get a walk-up permit in-person on the day before your hike, but only if they’re still available.

Last Chance for Backpacking

The park holds almost half of the Narrows camping reservations for walk-in permits. These aren’t released until the day before your trip, and must be obtained in person.

Permits are managed out of the Wilderness Desk in Zion’s main visitor Center. The desk opens at 7am in the spring, summer, and fall, and at 8am in the winter. I highly recommend being there prior to when they open the doors.

Fees

There’s a $5 non-refundable fee to make an online reservation.

The cost of the actual permit is based on the number of people in your group:
$15.00 – 1-2 people
$20.00 – 3-7 people
$25.00 – 8-12 people

These are in addition to the park’s general entrance fee.

Special Regulations

You’ll have to sign off on the usual things like no fires, no pets, and no blowing things up with dynamite, but one significant item is a little out of the ordinary:

NO POOPING

Well, no pooping in the dirt, at least. You need to pack that out! The wilderness desk will issue you a free disposal kit when you pick up your permit.

NPS also prefers if you pee directly in the river. Seriously.

Designated Campsites

There are 12 designated campsites in the Zion Narrows. Site #1 is encountered first, and site #12 is encountered last. I like the higher-numbered sites best. This is because of their proximity to drinking water at Big Springs, and to set up a lower mileage Day 2.

The following descriptions are pulled directly from Park Service materials. When you pick up your permit, you’ll receive a map with the marked campsites and descriptions on the back.

Some sites are only available for walk-in permits the day before your trip.

#1 – Deep Creek

At the confluence of Deep Creek, the site is located on the left side of the river.
Max Group Size: 4
Online permit first, walk-in if still available

#2 – River Bend

A 10-15 minute walk beyond Deep Creek, River Bend is located on the right side of the point of a sharp bench 10 feet above the river.
Max group size: 4
Walk-in permit only

#3 – Right Bench

A 10-15 minute walk from River Bend, this site is located on the right hand bench in a stand of maples 20 feet above the river.
Max group size: 6
Online permit first, walk-in if still available

#4 – Flat Rock

Flat Rock is a 5-10 minute walk beyond Right Bench, located beside a large flat rock next to the river. The camping areas are on a 6 foot high bench next to the canyon wall, which provides limited shelter from the elements.
Max group size: 2
Walk-in permit only

#5 – Ringtail

A short 5 minute walk beyond Flat Rock, Ringtail is located on a right bench in a sandy area. Just before Kolob Creek. This site has a maximum group size of 6 and is available for reservations online or on a walk-up basis.

#6 – Kolob Creek

At the confluence of Kolob Creek. The site is located on the right side of the river, 20 feet above the river on a bench.
Max group size: 12
Walk-in permit only

#7 – Box Elder

A 10 minute walk beyond Kolob Creek. This site is located on the left about 30 feet up on a bench.
Max group size: 6
Online permit first, walk-in if still available

#8 – Boulder Camp

Across the river from Box Elder, a 10 minute walk beyond Kolob Creek around a sharp bend. The access trail is to the right, up slope about 50 feet.
Max group size: 6
Walk-in permit only

#9 – Left Bench

A 10 minute walk beyond Boulder Camp, on the left. Located on a 10 foot bench next to the canyon wall in a grove of maples and Douglas firs. It may be easy to miss.
Max group size: 6
Online permit first, walk-in if still available

#10 – West Bend

A 5 minute hike from Left Bench. This site is on a high bank located on a western bend.
Max group size: 6
Walk-in permit only

#11 – Spotted Owl

This sunny campsite is located on the left side, immediately after the first stream crossing. It is up a slope 10 feet above the river.
Max group size: 4
Walk-in permit only

#12 – High Camp

High Camp is a 15-20 minute walk beyond Spotted Owl on a slow, difficult section of the river, 300 yards before Big Springs. The site is on the left side of the river on a 25 foot high bench in a stand of maples and Douglas-fir. It may be easy to miss.
Max group size: 12
Online permit first, walk-in if still available

Water Sources: My Strategy

Park Service recommends carrying all of your water and drinking a gallon a day, so officially I’ll have to recommend starting with 4 liters.

Personally I’d begin this day hike with two or three liters of water, depending on the season. I’d make sure I’m fully hydrated before even setting foot on the trail (This is a good trick to carry less weight and have a better experience). I’d bring my Aquamira and fill up with more water at Big Springs, if necessary.

I like Aquamira drops to treat my water. It’s a lightweight, simple solution.

For backpacking I would start the trip with enough water to see me through the first day and the first night. On the morning of Day 2 I’d stop at Big Springs to see me through the rest of the trip. If you score campsite 11 or 12, just carry enough water to see you through the first day.

Other small springs can be found along the way, but Big Springs is the largest, most reliable, and basically impossible to miss. It will be on the right side of the canyon as you head downstream.

You can drink treated water from the Virgin River itself, but I wouldn’t recommend it, especially since cleaner sources are available. The Park Service advises against drinking from the main river until you’re downstream of its confluence with Deep Creek.

Shuttle Logistics

The top-down hike begins at Chamberlain Ranch and ends at the Temple of Sinawava. For most of the year the Temple of Sinawava is only accessible via the park’s free shuttle bus, so the exit trailhead for the adventure is effectively Zion’s main Visitor Center.

MAJOR TIP: When you pick up your permit, be sure to find out when the last shuttle bus leaves the Temple of Sinawava. This is your deadline! Otherwise, you’ll be forced to do a lot more walking… at the end of a grueling day… in wet clothes… in the dark.

The simplest thing to do is get dropped off at Chamberlain Ranch and spot a car at the visitor center.

Zion’s main campground (Watchman) is next door to the visitor center.

If you just love walking and can’t get enough of it, it’s not unreasonable to walk from the visitor center to the lodging in Springdale. I did this, but don’t especially recommend it.

Getting to Chamberlain Ranch

I had a friend drop me off at the trailhead. If you’re driving on your own, Chamberlain Ranch is reached after following the North Fork Road (dirt) for 17 miles north from Route 9. The North Fork Road is 1.7 miles east of Zion’s East Entrance, or approximately 13 miles west of Mt Carmel Junction.

On Google Maps, try entering “Zion Narrows Upper Trailhead.”

Local Shuttle Services

The most popular option is to utilize one of the local businesses out of Springdale that offers shuttles. This not only simplifies your logistics, but also ensures that you’ll get started at a reasonable time! Look into the following companies to book a shuttle:

Zion Adventure Company
Zion Rock and Mountain Guides
Red Rock Shuttle
Zion Guru

More Advice Specific to Hiking it in One Day

When we go backpacking we tend to count every ounce that goes into our packs, but then we throw caution to the wind when it comes to day-hiking! Don’t do that for the Narrows. Pack smart.

In fact, the notion of carrying less weight is probably what led you to consider this as a day hike in the first place. Why trudge through the river with all that overnight gear when you can knock it out in a day? Don’t forget to keep weight in mind when you pack for day.

How long does it take?

The Park Service estimates about 12.5 hours to complete the hike. They even publish a timetable based on this figure to help you keep track of your pace.

Time Table

Chamberlain Ranch ———— 0:00
Bulloch’s Cabin —————– 1:00
First Narrows ——————- 3:30
Waterfall ————————- 4:15
Deep Creek ———————- 5:00
Kolob Creek ——————— 5:45
Goose Creek ——————— 6:35
Big Springs ———————- 7:20
Orderville Canyon ————- 10:00
North End of Riverside Walk – 11:50
Temple of Sinawava ———– 12:20

Ultra-fast hikers can do it in about 9 hours, whereas others may take about 14.

The river’s flow rate will have a big impact on how fast you’ll go.

It took me about eleven hours from trailhead to trailhead. I took a lot of pictures, and I was in top shape after completing a thru-hike of the Jon Muir Trail only about a week before doing the Narrows. I was 29 years old.

Special Equipment

I cover most of the basics on my backpacking gear list, but the Narrows call for some extra consideration. If you’re not much of a gear junkie and don’t envision yourself hiking in any more rivers in the near future, the best choice is look into a rental package from one of Springdale’s outfitters:

Zion Adventure Company
Zion Outfitter
Zion Rock & Mountain Guides

Trekking poles: As a backpacker or avid day-hiker you probably already own these, and most types will see you through the Narrows just fine. However, most rental packages include an old-fashioned walking stick, and I recommend using this instead of your poles. Why? The narrow tips of your poles are more likely to get jammed in rocks. Makes sense to me.

Neoprene socks will keep your feet warm and make life a lot more pleasant. If you’re hiking in June, July, August, or early September you don’t need them. At any other time of year, YES, you do. I did not have neoprene socks when I hiked on October 2nd, and my feet were like icicles! Especially in the early morning… brrrrrrrr.

Dry pants or even a full dry suit are worth considering in the shoulder seasons. I’d consider a dry suit to be a “must” in the dead of winter.

Don’t forget about your general cold-weather gear, like a beanie and gloves. Don’t neglect the extremities. Prolonged exposure to cold water penetrates the depths of your soul!

Your regular hiking footwear is probably best. Special canyoneering shoes may increase your traction, but make sure that they fit you well – especially in the case of rentals. This isn’t the place to risk getting blisters!

The simplest option is to rent a waterproof backpack. Dry bags are also a good idea to keep your critical gear safe.

If you love your fancy gear, then day-hiking the Zion Narrows is a perfect excuse to justify buying the best day pack on the market. It’s waterproof! My favorite backpacking pack is waterproof, too.

Yes it’s good to have some level of protection to stow away your camera in the deep water through Wall Street, but be brave with it! If you’re going to keep your camera locked away for the majority of the hike, then why even bother bringing it?

GPS tracking and emergency beacons are popular nowadays, but keep in mind that they’re unreliable and often worthless in narrow canyons.

Route Description

For the first 3 miles of the hike you won’t get your feet went. Follow the left bank of the river, primarily on an old road. These will be the easiest and least scenic miles of the entire hike, a winning recipe to advise moving along at a strong pace.

After these 3 miles you’ll come to Bulloch’s Cabin. It’s more like a historic ruin than an actual cabin. Shortly after this you’ll come to the first place where you’ll have to get your feet wet. The Narrows begin to take shape.

North Fork Falls is the next major landmark. It’s a significant waterfall that looks as through it will block your progress, but there’s a bypass on the left (south) side of the canyon.

Shortly after the falls, you’ll come to the confluence with Deep Creek, a large tributary coming in from the right. The main course of the Virgin River makes a bend to the left. This is about 8.5 miles into the day.

Beyond Deep Creek you’ll start to encounter the campsites. They’re marked with yellow stakes, but can still be easy to miss. You’ll also begin to notice that the depth and flow of the river begins to increase after Deep Creek, amplified by later confluences with Kolob Creek and Goose Creek (Also on the right).

Big Springs will be on the right side of the river, and it’s awfully hard to miss. At this point you’ve hiked about eleven miles. If you’re doing an overnight trip and get here on your first day, turn around! You’ve missed your site – there’s no more camping beyond here. Get ready to scramble through a mass of boulders upon leaving Big Springs.

You may start to encounter the more intrepid bottom-up day hikers throughout the next section, often dubbed as Wall Street. You’ll often be forced into the river, and this is where you’re most likely to find deep water. On October 2nd the water was almost up to my chest!

Orderville Canyon enters the river’s course from the left. At this point you will have walked more than 13 miles from Chamberlain Ranch. You’ll begin to see a lot more hikers and know you’re getting close to the end.

Mystery Falls is a tall, thin stream that flows down a rock face on the left side of the canyon. Only about another mile and a half to go – you’re almost there!

Soon you’ll exit the Narrows and pick up the Riverside Walk – a paved interpretive trail that leads to the free shuttle stop at the Temple of Sinawava.

My Trip Notes and Photos

I day-hiked the Narrows from the top-down on October 2, 2009. This was only a matter of days after completing a thru-hike of the John Muir Trail. Here’s some things I remember most about the day.

Starting before sunrise – I cannot emphasize enough that this is a big day, and it’s imperative to be on top of things. The light was dim when I started walking, but it was long before sunrise when I got out of bed.

I’d expected relatively mild temperatures in the early morning. After having just come out of the 10,000-plus foot Sierras, I felt especially ready for the conditions.

Wrong! The air temperature was in the 30s when I started hiking, and the water was equally cold. It took a lot of courage to stick my feet in that water! It was soooooo cold.

So cold, in fact, that I screamed every time. I’d yell “Ahhh!!!!” repeatedly just like that old Alice in Chains song, Them Bones. The song is good representation of the mindset required for this sort of hiking. I should have got some neoprene socks!

The fall colors were wonderful. So many pictures!

Wall Street was ominous and foreboding, even without much of a flash flood risk on this day. The water was deepest here, and being in a narrow, wet canyon all day gets under your skin after a while. Despite the beauty, I was getting ready for it to be over by the time I reached Orderville.

It was after sunset by the time I reached the hotel in Springdale.

The adventure begins.

North Fork Falls

Big Springs

Have you hiked the Zion Narrows from the top-down, or do you have any more questions about it? Feel free to let me know in the comments.