A stunning adventure through one of the longest slot canyons in the world.
Buckskin Gulch via Wire Pass to the White House Trailhead
MAP: Trails Illustrated
PERMITS: required: $6 per person for day hiking, payable via an envelope kiosk at the trailhead. Apply here for overnight permits.
DESIGNATION: BLM and Vermilion Cliffs National Monument
BEST SEASONS: spring, early summer, fall
DISTANCE: 21 miles
WATER: none but the silty Paria River – carry plenty
ELEVATION: Wire Pass ~4800, White House Trailhead ~4300
ACCESS: dirt road – most vehicles are generally okay
DRIVING: This hike requires two vehicles or a shuttle, beginning at “Wire Pass” and ending at “White House Campground.” Both of these phrases in quotations register via Google Maps. See more details below.
ROUTE: Narrow slot canyon – heed the warnings below!
HIKING DIRECTIONS: Hike for 1.7 miles down the sandy wash of Wire Pass and into its slot canyon to the confluence with Buckskin Gulch. Turn right into Buckskin Gulch and follow the narrow canyon for approximately 12 miles to its confluence with the wet, flowing Paria River. Turn left and follow the Paria River upstream for 7 miles to White House Campground, which will be on your right.
GUIDEBOOK: Hiking and Exploring the Paria River
WARNING: Flash Floods Occur Here – They Can Kill You!
A wall of raging water and debris can come rushing down the narrows of Buckskin Gulch when there’s heavy rain in southern Utah. If the sky above you is clear, this doesn’t mean that you’re necessarily safe. Storms occurring many miles away can still cause a flash flood in your area!
For these reasons, it is imperative to check a local weather report and ensure that there’s virtually zero risk of rain. The months of July and August are especially dangerous – monsoons thunderstorms occur in southern Utah at this time of year with little to no warning.
Other Hazards
Slot canyons provide a unique environment that can change dramatically with each passing season. The floor of Buckskin Gulch can be dry and sandy one day, yet provide multiple sections of deep mud and water only a week later.
This hike has at least two sections where boulder jams are known to present a significant obstacle. In most cases these are navigable with some basic climbing skills, but conditions can change at any time. Backpackers should bring a rope for lowering packs, and day hikers may find rope to be useful as a hand line.
The Paria River is not a true slot like Buckskin, but you are sure to get wet feet – walking in water for a significant length of time. If you do this as a long day hike, the Paria meets you as an upstream slog at the end of an exhausting day. Plan accordingly!
The general rule when traversing slot canyons is to be aware that you may be presented with an impassable obstacle at any time. Always be prepared to turn around if necessary, never jump from an obstacle, and be sure you’re capable of climbing back up any obstacle that you descend.
Deaths
There’s surprising little to no record of any deaths occurring in Buckskin Gulch as a result of a flash flood. Most deaths in the area are the result of falls and heat stroke from hikers visiting the nearby Wave formation.
There have been, however, many deaths as a result of flash floods through similar slot canyons throughout Utah – be aware of the risk!
Logistics
Buckskin Gulch has two main entrance points – the Buckskin Gulch Trailhead and Wire Pass Trailhead. Wire Pass is the most common access, as Buckskin Gulch Trailhead adds an additional 3 miles of less-stunning hiking.
About halfway through the canyon, the steep and obscure Middle Route is the only access in addition to the official trailheads. This is considered for emergency use only, as this steep scramble impractically brings you out into the middle of nowhere.
Buckskin Gulch empties into the Paria River, so one-way travel exits up the river to its main access at White House Trailhead. Those looking for a longer adventure can continue (with a coveted backpacking permit) down the Paria River to Lees Ferry.
Potential Itineraries
This guide focuses on entering Buckskin Gulch via Wire Pass and exiting via the Paria River at White House Campground, a distance of 21 miles.
To continue down the Paria River from Buckskin Gulch (not discussed in this post) is a journey that totals 45+ miles, accessible only through a competitive permit system.
Day Hiking
Casual visitors can hike in from Wire Pass or Buckskin Gulch TH with a simple day-use permit at the trailhead. You can hike as far into the canyons as you dare. Keep an eye on the clock, and simply turn around and return the way you came.
Buckskin Gulch TH to Wire Pass TH may seem like a nice loop for a day hike, but nearly half of this 9-mile day would be spent walking the road between trailheads (4 miles). Better to explore deeper into the canyon one-way via Wire Pass.
For strong hikers capable of knocking out over 20 miles in a day, I highly recommend doing the entirety to White House as a day hike, with a second vehicle (car spot) or shuttle.
Not only will you avoid carrying overnight gear, but you can circumvent the competitive permit process with a simple day-use permit at the trailhead. Wag bags are required for packing your poop out of these canyons, so day-hiking increases your chance of avoiding this process, too!
Backpacking
The 21 miles going in Wire Pass and out White House Trailhead are often done as a wonderful overnight backpacking adventure. You can even stretch it into two nights and take some time to explore downstream in the Paria River.
The best (and only truly comfortable) places to camp in Buckskin Gulch are in its lower reaches, not too far from its confluence with the Paria River. Here the canyon opens up, and benches form on both sides that make for some nice campsites.
Advance permits are required for backpacking, and the process can be considerably competitive. Reservations are done through the BLM on this page. Permits are released no more than four months in advance, and must be picked up in person at the Kanab Field Office or Paria Contact Station prior to your hike. Here’s some regulations that you should be aware of:
- You must pack out your toilet paper and your poop! Human waste bags are given to you for free when you pick up your permit in Kanab or at the Paria Contact Station.
- Dogs are allowed, but you must pack out their poop too!
- No campfires
- No camping near archaeological sites
- Group size is limited to 10.
Getting There
Wire Pass and White House Trailhead/Campground are both located south of Route 89 on separate dirt roads between Kanab, UT and Page, AZ.
To travel directly between the two trailheads is a distance of 15.4 miles.
Wire Pass Trailhead
To get to Wire Pass, you’ll turn south on House Rock Road. This road is located between mile markers 25 and 26, near a big curve of Highway 89. House Rock Road is 38 miles east of Kanab and 34 miles west of Page.
Continue south on the dirt House Rock Road for 8.4 miles to Wire Pass Trailhead.
Buckskin Gulch Trailhead is located first, 4.5 miles south of 89 on House Rock Road.
The nearby Stateline Campground is 10.5 miles south of the highway on House Rock Road. The campground has 7 free, first come, first served sites with picnic tables, fire pits, and a pit toilet. No water is available here, but this is a great place to set up for an early morning start.
White House Trailhead
The road to White House Trailhead (and campgournd) is south of Route 89, signed as the location of the Paria Contact Station. The road is between mile markers 20 and 21. This turn is also 30 miles west of Page, AZ and 43 miles east of Kanab, UT.
Continue south on the gravel road for 2 miles to reach the White House Trailhead and Campground.
White House Campground has 5 first come, first served campsites available. Sites have picnic tables, tent pads, and fire pits. A fee is required.
Drinking water is available year-round in the parking area of the seasonal Paria Contact Station.
When to Go
Spring and Fall are generally best, but June is often one of the driest, hottest months of the year with the longest daylight and least likelihood of flash floods.
In order of personal preference I like June, May, September, October, April, and November. March can have decent weather too, but a higher likelihood of poor road conditions.
It’s certainly possible to go in the winter months – December, January, and February, but the roads can be snowy and in terrible shape. The narrow canyons would be absolutely frigid with little to no sunlight…. but hey, you’re sure to have an “experience!”
July and August are suicide, rolling the dice with your life. This is flash flood season!
Shuttles
Here’s some listing of local services that can help you out with a shuttle.
Grand Staircase Discovery Tours
Gear
Some sources recommend taking a 40 foot length of rope to be sure of passage through the boulder jams. Some sort of rope is especially critical for backpackers to lower packs. Personally I think a 30 foot length of webbing should suffice.
Remember that your feet are going to get wet, so plan your footwear accordingly. I like low-top trail runners for this sort of terrain, but whatever works for you is best.
Backpackers will be happy to have an extra pair of socks.
Very little sunlight penetrates long sections of Buckskin Gulch, so be prepared for conditions that can be significantly chillier than you’ll find in the surrounding terrain.
Carry all the water you’ll need. The Paria River is silty and very poor for drinking, even with a filter and time to settle. Big Springs has good water, but it’s located 5 miles down the Paria from the Buckskin/Paria confluence.
See my Ultimate Gear List for more recommendations.
My Trip Notes and Photos
I day-hiked from Wire Pass to White House Campground with friends David and Ashley on September 28, 2011. David and I were new to these canyons, but Ashley had made a couple visits in the past and was eager to go through here in a single day.
We had two vehicles to do our own car spot and shuttle. Everything went great, spending the night of September 27th at the Stateline Campground, staged for an early start on the 28th.
I knew Buckskin Gulch was sure to be scenic and wonderful, but to this day I’m still impressed with the set of photos I was able to take away from the day. I stayed behind my companions to get them in my shots for scale, and came away with some great stuff. They didn’t seem to mind the constant clicking of my camera shutter in the otherwise silent canyon behind them, either.
Please enjoy viewing the photos!
first steps down Wire Pass
We soon got into some pools of mud in Wire Pass (see photo in the guide above), but in the scheme of things it wasn’t very bad at all. I don’t think we had to do any more wading until the Paria River.
The Paria River
Not long after we reached the landmark of the River, I surprised my companions with a six pack of beer I’d had hidden in my backpack.
It was a great day of hiking!
Hi Jamie,
Will be hiking around utah/arizona in early March. What do you think we can expect on the wire pass to buckskin gulch hike, as far as mud conditions. We’ll probably hike around 2 to 3 hours total. Thanks
Hey Debbie,
It’s still a little too far out from early March to predict the conditions with much accuracy. With that said, I’d think you should expect to find some mud, and morning temps around 40F. It’s been a wet winter so far, but you never know, things could take a turn and dry up quickly. How much mud you’ll encounter depends how the weather unfolds closer to the date of your hike.
According to recent reports, the ladder that’s sometimes present for the trickiest part of Wire Pass is gone, so you may need to use the bypass on the canyon-right side (south side) of Wire Pass. I’d expect to find big pools of water in Buckskin Gulch, downstream of the junction with Wire Pass, but this won’t be a concern if you’re limited to only three hours.
I would like to hike for 2 hours. Can you suggest the best route? What kind of hiking shoes/boots should I wear? I’m going to be hiking Dec 14. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
Hi Rhapsedy, I’d recommend going down Wire Pass for one hour, and then turning around to retrace your steps back to your vehicle. Wear sturdy shoes that are comfortable and warm – mud and water should not be major concern at this time of year, especially with your limited time. The weather will likely be cooler than you expect.
Hi, I am planning to hike with two friends in mid-May. None of us have ever used a rope on a hike before, when you use the rope as a handline are you tying the rope to a rock up top and using it to climb down and then leaving the rope behind? If you could explain the logistics of the rope use that would be very helpful. This article was great. Thanks!!!
For the record, most hikers will not require a rope on this hike. With that said, it’s a good piece of gear to have in any slot canyon, as conditions can change prior to your trip. On a popular hike like this, you may even find a fixed rope of passable quality when/where needed.
In Wire Pass there’s a short obstacle where a rope prove useful, but there’s a well-marked bypass trail that goes around this spot. Deeper in Buckskin Gulch there’s the log jam I mentioned in the article, where backpackers may like to lower their heavy backpacks before scrambling down the obstacle.
Regarding handline logistics, as a solo hiker I will loop the rope once around a sturdy tree or rock above the obstacle. As I hold the handline on the descent, I grip both pieces of it as one together to maintain its integrity. Once at the bottom it’s just a matter of tugging at a single end to retrieve it. Granted this method cuts the effective length of your rope in half, but it’s a very poor practice to leave a rope behind (Leave No Trace!).
When you’re hiking in a group, sometimes you’ll have a strong climber that can retrieve a tied handline and descend an obstacle without aid. Personally I like using webbing (as opposed to climbing rope) for use as a handline.
I will be visiting this area in late May. My plan is to hike Wire Pass and then hike as much as I can into Buckskin Gulch. I have to take into account my hike back out and my drive back to Kanab. After seeing your pictures with all the mud and the water, how much of these conditions can I expect? I do have hiking boots, but I will be on tour to White Pocket the next day and need to use them. What do you recommend in these circumstances? Would I be able to change into sneakers or a water shoe while in the canyon to wade through the mud and then change back into the hiking boots?
Hi Maggie, you should expect to encounter some mud and water. How much or how little depends on the recent weather prior to your visit, which is difficult to predict. I will say that late May tends to be a relatively dry time of year.
You have a few options here, but I think the most convenient is to bring a separate pair of socks and shoes that you’ll plan to sacrifice for the day in Buckskin. The mud has a slimy consistency that’s messy to deal with if changing shoes throughout the hike. It also requires a good soaking (like with a garden hose) to properly remove it.
Thank you Jamie for your response. I appreciate it.
I am 70 years old and i want to see some of the Buckskin gulch. once you enter at wire pass how far can you go before before climbing rocks. Im in pretty good shape and healthy. I just want to walk far enough to feel Ive seen the sights that worth the trip. your thoughts would be appreciated. Is april or may a good time to go? Thanks
Hi David, thanks for the comment. Wire Pass is a wide, sandy canyon for over a mile before it becomes a narrow slot. Soon after entering the slot there’s an 8-foot drop, where there may or may not be a wooden ladder for assistance. I’ve heard of a bypass “trail” marked with rock cairns that goes around this spot. The bypass trail is to the south, or to the right as you face down-canyon. I don’t have personal experience on the bypass so I can’t comment on its condition.
Both April and May are good times to go. I think May is slightly better, so long as you get an early start. In April you’re more likely to encounter standing water in the canyon, but May is more likely to be hot – you’re in the desert, after all.
I think your best course would be to read the reviews on Tripadvisor to help decide if this hike is worth it for you.
Jamie,
We are planning a one day hike In a couple of weeks. Do you remember your camera settings?
Steve
Hi Steven,
I used a Nikon D3100 on this hike with the 18-55 kit lens. I think most of my settings were auto “P” mode, with the exception of the focus. I liked to use Single Point mode to get the exposure the way I liked it, often focusing on a bright point in the scene, and then adjusting the frame accordingly. I also liked to set the exposure compensation at minus 0.3, and I set the white balance at “Vivid” plus, though I don’t recall the exact “plus” level. Finally, I think I’d slapped a polarizing filter on the lens, but rarely took the time to spin it and use it properly. You can see more of my thoughts on photography here and here.
I hope this helps and that you have a great and successful day out there!
Thanks for this write up. It has been very helpful.
I plan on doing this as a 21 mile day hike in a few weeks. I have a couple of questions:
1. Would you recommend hiking in trail runners or in hiking sandals like Chaco‘s?
2. Wondering about the potential of any mandatory swims that would necessitate the use of a waterproof backpack.
3. How much water did you pack? Hoping my 3 L bladder will be enough.
Hi Michael!
The choice between trail runners and chacos is a personal thing. For me I like trail runners, but if you feel confident that you can grind out the day in chacos, then I’m sure you’re right.
There shouldn’t be any swims. The deepest pools will be in Wire Pass. Given the timing of your hike in a few weeks, I’d wager that the water will be knee deep or less.
This is a long day and the temperature could still be in the 80s, so I would carry 5 liters. It’s much better to have extra than not enough – in the worst case you could still just dump the extra when you start trending uphill in the Paria.
Thanks for your helpful article. As always, very informative. Would like your view on starting at White House TH and hiking south into Buckskin gulch and then hiking west into the slot canyon for a distance as time and ability allow. Then hiking back out the same way. Basically, the opposite direction of your hike. I realize much of the slot canyon will be missed but also would perhaps avoid any boulder climbs or having to turn around due to time contraints before reaching Buckskin gulch. Trying to decide whether to start at Wire Pass TH like you and then turn around part way or start at White House TH and reach Buckskin gulch and part of the slot canyon before turning around.
If your intent is to see Buckskin Gulch then definitely start at Wire Pass. The approach down Wire Pass to Buckskin is less then two miles one-way, whereas it’s about 7 miles one-way down the Paria to reach Buckskin. The canyon is immediately stunning even there at its confluence with Wire Pass.
Hi, I’m planning to hike Buckskin later this month. We plan to start at Wire Pass Trail to White House Campground and make it a one day hike. Yes I know it’s gonna be a long day. I have a couple questions to make sure it’s a pleasurable adventure.
1- How many hours do you think it will take?
2- We plan to park @ Wire Pass and get a shuttle to pick us up @ White House Camp.. trying to plan time for shuttle pick up..
Any suggestions?
Hi Tia, judging by the time stamps on my photos, the hike took us 11.5 hours from Wire Pass to White House in late September. We were all in very good shape and moved at a steady pace, but I still found time to grab photos along the way (as you can see). There was some mud and standing water in Wire Pass but overall conditions were very good (more mud will slow you down considerably, as will warmer air temperature).
It’s best to stay the previous night at the Stateline Campground to get an early start, or at least nearby in Page or Kanab. I’d book at least 12 hours for the shuttle, maybe more depending on your experience, fitness, and seasonal timing. And as always, don’t be afraid to cancel if there’s a chance of rain in southern Utah.