Day 49 – Bicycling Across America

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The TransAmerica Trail – Colorado

Fairplay, CO – Frisco, CO

44 miles

July 14, 2006

Well I felt a little better about the stolen camera as soon as I woke up. This part of Colorado should be one of the highlights of the whole trip, and it would be silly to let a single odd jerk dampen my spirits. I hope that person makes good use of my camera… then goes to hell!

I went ahead and had breakfast at a neat little place – The Burro Cafe, I think it was called. I’m coming into the trendy-touristy-ski type areas of the state now. If you’ve been following along, you should probably know what I had to eat by now. I met three friendly guys there who were asking about my trip – one of whom was Larry Brucker. I told him how I lost my camera, and he said “Oh… that’s very rare. Around here you’ll find the best people anywhere.” He went on to offer me his regular 35mm camera on loan, and I would simply mail it back to him, because “Those disposables don’t take good pictures.” That was very kind, but I declined.

So now I was ready to start my day and climb up to the highest point on the Transamerica Trail – Hoosier Pass. The high altitude was beautiful, of course, as I sucked in cool, clean air, looked all round at strong evergreens and views, and gazed up at peaks that still held lingering snow from winter, in July. At a small gravel turnoff I met James, a local ski patrol worker. He has a permit to take blowdown trees from the National Forest area to use as firewood. I employ him to take my picture, and before I know it, he’s going on and on about local history, towns, and all kinds of funny stories. The ski workers all have nicknames, and his is “Jingles.”

Soon I come to Hoosier Pass itself, and the Continental Divide. This is the token photograph location for transam riders, so it’s great to be at this place in the flesh after seeing so many pictures. And for those of you who don’t know, the Continental Divide is essentially a line drawn north to south along the crest of the Rocky Mountains. All the rain that falls to the west finds its way to the Pacific Ocean, and everything east winds up in the Alantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico. So if I pee on this tree over here…

The descent curved along hairpin switchbacks for a little ways, giving my forearms a workout from clutching and pumping the brakes. Soon the road straightened out, and I could pick up some speed and enjoy the coasting.

I came to the town of Breckinridge, and this was your thriving Colorado Rocky Mountain tourist town. There were people walking everywhere among numerous small shops, countless cyclists, dreadlocks, reggae music, and vacationers. I passed a photo shop, and didn’t waste any time going in to buy a new camera. They didn’t have the one I was carrying, the Nikon Coolpix L4, so I went ahead and sprung for an upgrade to the Nikon Coolpix L3. It’s 5.1 megapixels, up from 4.0 on my old camera. I figured I may as well make a positive thing out of this, eh? Granted, I had to drop some cash, but it’s a relief to be back on track as if nothing ever happened.

Next I went to a supermarket on the edge of town where they had a one hour photo service, and turned in my disposable camera that I’d already burned up. With an hour to spare now, I parked at an adjacent pizza shop – spending the whole hour there, and beginning today’s journal entry. Then I picked up the photos (And CD), which turned out great. I was tempted to go straight to an internet cafe they have here and upload the pictures right away, but a dark cloud had drifted over a near ridge, prompting me to quit hanging around Breckenridge and get moving.

Between the towns around here along Route 9 they have some sweet, paved bicycle paths. Again for those of you in east PA, imagine if they had paths like the one in Trexler Park, except it runs from Easton, to Bethlehem, to Allentown, then out to Kutzown, and maybe even Reading. That’s what the bike paths are like here – and they’re beautiful, of course.

Tonight I made it as far as Frisco, another vibrant little mountain town. They had a guy singing and playing guitar at a pavilion – mostly oldies. I heard Runaround Sue, LaBamba, Sweet Caroline, and Willie Nelson On the Road Again. I had intended to go farther tonight, but it started pouring rain, and this is a hip little town. Life is good.


outside Fairplay, CO


Alma may be the highest town in the United States


“Jingles”


the bicycle path


dancing in Frisco


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