Tennessee____The Appalachian Trail____Central/Northern Virginia
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Friday, May 25, 2001
Saunders Shelter-Damascus, VA
Today’s Miles: 9.6
Trip Miles: 462.9
It was a dark, peaceful night when I left Quincey’s last night, with my pack. I hiked down the main street in Damascus, humming CCR’s “Doo doo doo, lookin’ out my back door…” My stick clicked on the cement until I made it to the hostel. So does that count as a night hike?! Ha! Probably not – I think I’ve gone further to the privy before in the dark.
A fantastic pancakes and bacon breakfast started the day wonderfully… and a Coke to drink. They have something in this part of the country that knocks my socks off. Coca-Cola… in glass bottles! That’s right, I’m still having difficulty comprehending this. I thought they stopped manufacturing those in like 1985 or something! Nearly asking a stranger if it was indeed the year 2001, I imagined that Doc Brown had flown me here in a DeLorean, to the time when glass Coca-Cola bottles ruled. Hello, McFly! I had to twist my arm to refrain from buying one, only to send the empty bottle home.
After attending to my typical errands in town, I packed up and returned for a lunch of a double burger and fries. As I hoisted my pack on my shoulders, returning to the trail, a young blonde cutie in a long skirt smiled at me! Whooo! It must be the macho facial hair and walking stick… right.
The trail in Virginia is lovely already. I’m not sure what it is about it. All the food I ate in the past twelve hours gave me fuel to literally bounce up the footpath. I walked along a narrow, raging creek for awhile, foaming and roaring in rapids after last night’s and this morning’s rain and storms. The cool air and rush of it struck me back for a moment, because it smelled like the ocean. Damp, red orange leaves littered the path in the shady, overcast light. The sun came out later, spectacularly, playing upon everying into shadows. High, pink, bushy rhododendrons abounded on the mountaintop, and bees hovered among the petals. This shelter is in a nice area , with a field and pine trees. Leif’s mom and sister, Scott, and Slowpoke are here. I automatically get drowsy as night falls out here, even though I was up and around until midnight last night. Life is good.
in Damascus
at The Place – Grasshopper, Emma, Panama Red
footbridge on The Virginia Creeper Trail
Saturday, May 26, 2001
Saunders Shelter-Thomas Knob Shelter
Today’s Miles: 18.6
Trip Miles: 481.5
I crossed about a million and a half small creeks today. I’m not kidding, water everywhere. Trudged through an obscene amount of mud. I step and my foot instantly sinks an inch or more into the muck. I crossed a pretty cool, long footbridge this morning before taking a long midday bread at the Lost Mountain Shelter. Chewbacca, Turtle, Kelly, Stock, and Bushwhack were heading out when I rolled in. I had lunch and relaxed, reading a book for over two hours. The sun warmed me as junco birds and chipmunks scampered around my feet. Baltimore Jack, Pepe, Pam, and Jamie stopped through, slackpacking southbound. The trail seemed rather crowded all day long – not only thru-hikers, but a ton of people out for the Memorial Day weekend.
The climb up Whitetop Mountain was long and arduous, but excellent views from Buzzard Rock, an open bald area, made it rewarding. I passed through more cattle fields and quaint spots , and sludged through more mud to finally make it here, another beautiful area. I travelled near Mount Rodgers, the highest point in all of Virgina. I’m really looking forward to the Grayson Highlands tomorrow, one of the supposedly most scenic areas on the whole trail. It is COLD up here tonight. And at the end of May! I’m glad I haven’t sent home my cold weather gear yet. Life is good.
the view from Whitetop
Sunday, May 27, 2001
Thomas Knob Shelter-Wise Shelter
Today’s Miles: 4.5
Trip Miles: 481.5
Today was Sunday of Memorial Day weekend. All of America was out having cookouts and such fun. I traversed through the Grayson Highlands in the mountains of Virginia.
A cold, strong wind blew all morning long. I stayed comfortable in my sleeping bag until the afternoon, relaxing and reading. The weather persisted, and I eventually headed out into the open grasslands. The wind made me feel more alive than ever before, and I spryly nimbled from rock to rock, with many leaps of faith. “Wild” ponies could occasionally be seen in herds. Their wrangled hair strayed in the breeze, and the tall grasses rustled all about them. The straps of my pack flapped in my face, and grey clouds visibly soared from horizon to horizon overhead. I was a whirlwind of energy.
I originally planned on moving on when I arrived at this shelter. My train of thought over the next hour or so somehow led me to staying here for the night. I think the decision involved the threat of rain, or something. Now I’m camped in a small grove with Doose, Panama Red, Goo, and Madcow. It just started to rain. I was fortunate enough to see a huge brown spider in my tent, and managed to get in out without too much trouble. It looked like it’s bite would have given me a world of hurt. I think it was a venomous Brown Recluse. Life is good.
The Grayson Highlands
Monday, May 28, 2001
Wise Shelter-Raccoon Branch Shelter
Today’s Miles: 16.9
Trip Miles: 498.4
Rain continued through the night, and well into the morning,. I made the pleasant discovery of a pool of water at the foot of my tent, soaking my down sleeping bag and pad… oh, how nice. I just LOVE it when that happens! Not. Maybe I’ll rig the rainfly a little more carefully next time. That put me in a lousy mood but it went away as soon as I crawled out and observed the nature all around me. After I packed up my wet things and was on my way, things weren’t so bad after all.
The last section of the Highlands had more ponies. A group of about six of them trotted right up to me, and started licking the sweat off my arms! For the salt, I suppose. These “wild” ponies in the state park make it a virtual petting zoo. These overcast, dismal days are perfect for daydreaming and contemplation. It was cool enough to keep from sweating too heavily, and my energy held all day long. Crossing a bridge near a georgeous waterfall, Gu yelled “Hey!” and scared the hell out of me. He was below the bridge, near the stream. It was like he was guarding the bridge like a troll, requesting a Snickers or something from anybody that wished to cross.
As of today, I’ve hiked over five hundred miles from Springer Mountain! That’s nearly a quarter of the whole trail! I feel great again tonight. Each day is such an emotional rollercoaster. I’m staying in this “spooky” area with Gu, Deano, Madcow, Shaggy, and Panama Red. All guys at the shelter tonight – bachelor party atmosphere. There’s supposed to be a phone near a shelter tomorrow, which you can use to order pizza! I think I’ll have two… it sure beats moldy bagels for dinner. Life is good.
Tuesday, May 29, 2001
Raccoon Branch Shelter-Partnership Shelter
Today’s Miles: 13
Trip Miles: 511.4
I spent a lazy morning hanging around the shelter reading, perfectly as happy as ever. It rained heavily overnight but quit by the time I was up – clear skies promising a beautiful day. I love Virginia! The terrain has been fairly level ever since I’ve been here, compared to all the Georgia and Carolina monsters. I’m in shape, settled in, and feeling confident. All the other hikers are completely comfortable too, and we’re all just having the time of our lives.
Running out of food, I decided to hitch into Marion to resupply. A pickup truck with an awesome guy named Greg pulled over. He asked the traditional “Where ya headed to?” question, and I told him. He said, “Well, you’re standin’ the wrong way! Marion’s THAT way,” pointing his thumb back in the other direction. But amazingly, he offered to TURN AROUND and take me all the way back! Then when he dropped me off at the Food Lion, he was going to wait for me and drive me back up to the trail! I explained that I was going to pick around and get dinner in town too, so declined, but… wow!
Supermarkets are far too much for my senses to handle. I want one of everything! The options, the options! I think I bought too much food for me to carry, but that’s okay. Then it was across the street to Pizza Hut, where I cleaned out a whole large pan pizza by myself, with sausage and pepperoni, naturally. The music system inside played the “Chariots of Fire” theme. Yeah! I’ll probably have that stuck in my head now for a week, when I’m sucking air up the mountains. It was amusing to watch the general manager there go about his job. It seems that all GM’s at fast food chains look and act exactly the same. Things moved so fast behind the counter there – I remember doing the same when I cooked at Perkins. How stressful!
A girl sitting diagonal from me casually asked how the hiking was going, and followed shortly with “Do you need a ride anywhere?”
“As a matter of fact, I do!” All this kindness is just too much. Her name’s Jenny and she’s graduating high school this year. Graduating high school… ah, this time of year, two years ago for me… nothing can really beat it.
She left me off at the trailhead, and I promptly dropped my two liter bottle of Coke on the pavement. I watched in horror as it bounced three feet in the air, crashed down again, and started rolling down the hill. It bust open and sprayed precious ounces of sugary goodness all over me as I fumbled and tried to rescue it. She asked, pulling away, “Do you want any towels?
No no, no thank you.
I lost about half the bottle, leaving it, er, half “full.” May the lost half rest in peace.
The Partnership Shelter is probably the nicest on the whole trail. There’s running water here! There’s also a phone a tenth of a mile away where you can order pizza. A great group of hikers are here tonight, talking and laughing under the crescent moon. Shaggy said he saw a sasquatch away in the woods a moment ago. The Amazing Dolphin Boy is goading me about how I kiddingly signed a shelter register as “The Amazing Duct Tape Boy.” We may get a killer game of wiffle ball fired up in a few minutes. I have a fresh box of cinnamon rolls waiting for me for breakfast. Roughin’ it. Life is good.
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Wednesday, May 30, 2001
Partnership Shelter-campsite
Today’s Miles: 21.4
Trip Miles: 532.8
I was awake before five in the morning, quietly tiptoeing around slumbering hikers. I silently ate my breakfast in the inky darkness behind the shelter, as a whipoorwill let out its distinct call. Leaving the remainder of my cinnamon rolls for others, I was packed and moving before the sunrise. I felt queasy, sick, and tired for a while, until I busted my butt up a long, steady hill. I instantly felt better, as if my body was like “Oh yeah, I burn a gazillion calories a day! How foolish of me to dare to launch all this grease and butter back up!” Rhododendrons lined the ridge until I descended, slushing through countless streams with inadequate stepping stones or logs. Thinking I was like Hercules, I lifted a blowdown over my head and ducked underneath it.
The trail then wound me through wide, expansive fields with rustling grass up to my hips, and a road crossing near I-81 with a Dairy Queen and highway rest stop. When I was there, a foreign guy came up and asked me for directions! He wasn’t looking for the nearest water source or campstite, so I unfortunately couldn’t be of any help. Ah, pizza for dinner, cinnnamon buns for breakfast, and a chicken sandwhich and fries for lunch! Yep yep, this is the rough life. I more than made up for last night’s tragic loss of Coca-cola.
The walk after the road crossing brought me through more grassy pastures, waving in the breeze, and back up into the mountains. I saw a tree with shining yellow flowers blooming from it that I had never seen before, and no less than ten monarch butterflies were fluttering on and around it, touching upon the petals. I gazed in awe for awhile, then continued through a tunnel of trees lined on both sides by fields, and out into another beautiful farm. I came upon Stryder, relaxing in the shade of the bows of perhaps the grandest, most stately oak tree I have ever laid eyes upon, centered in this open valley along a country lane. We took a long break together there, imagining various possibilities of camping along private property there, or of farmers taking us in for the night (With cute, single daughters of course). A local came down the lane on a riding mower, and we had a friendly chat with him about the nature of the property around us. It turned out that we were actually permitted to camp along the trail there. Sweet!
The trouble was, the next water source was three miles away, and neither of us had enough to last the night and into the morning. After a moment’s debate, we decided to stroll down the lane and ask the guy if we could fill up with his garden hose or something, as he had gone away now. we went down the lane to the house. A vicious, snarling rottweiller aggressively guarded the property, bounding toward us in a full trot. I swear it had to have been a hundred and fifty pounds, no lie. We backed off to the far end of the lane, but the dog kept coming – apparently its territory extended that far! I nearly wet my pants. The line “Sick balls, Chopper!” flashed through my mind.
“Come here, Rock!” the owner said, finally calling the dog off. Rock… how fitting a name. the guy’s name was Steve, and he kindly let us fill up our water.
So Stryder and I shooed cattle off the footpath, and climbed up to this beautiful hillside spot. It was a great evening, watching the farmer bring in the herd down below. The single adjacent ridge to us looks endless. The cattle let out the amusing, echoing, “moo” after “moo” until nightfall. Now the crickets are singing and fireflies twinkle everywhere. Life is good.
Thursday, May 31, 2001
Campsite-Chestnut Knob Shelter
Today’s Miles: 13.9
Trip Miles: 546.7
“Duct Tape, wake up!”
“Huh? It was Stryder. I rolled over in my sleeping bag. “Why?”
“I’m telling you man, get up!”
Then I heard it.
“Moo.”
I poked my head to the discover that about five cattle had taken a particular interest in our tents! They blankly stared right at me, and hesitantly approached, investigating my tent stakes. They were apparently wondering what the hell this rif raf was doing in their field. “There goes the neighborhood,” they were probably thinking. “First it’s hikers… next thing you know, they’ll have sheep on this farm! Moo!” Maybe one could carry my pack for twenty miles for me today. I suppose that would be “heffer blazing?” Stryder tried to pet one, but it wouldn’t stand for that. After having our fun and laughs, I shooed them off fearing that one would “do its business” on my tent. I packed up and left after soaking in some of the morning, leaving Stryder hanging around this beautiful spot all morning long.
I was feeling lazy, so I took a break near a creek for awhile, reading. the laborious ascent up Chestnut Ridge seemed to take forever. Sweat poured from me, fogging my glasses, despite the light drizzle that fell. My energy was lacking, and motivation was even worse. Eventually I got near the summit, and behold! The mountaintop was a peaceful, open clearing! That was so unexpected, and lifted my spirits enough to get me here. I’m sure there’d be a great view if it wasn’t for the clouds and fog. Somebody has a newspaper, and is announcing little tidbits of news that are sort of neat to hear. It’s funny not to be able to name a single movie that’s playing in the theaters right now! It’s still really chilly here, considering that it’s practically June! Well, lazy Duct Tape isn’t going to write anymore today. Life is good.
good morning!
Stryder
Friday, June 01, 2001
Chestnut Knob Shelter
Today’s Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 546.7
A thick cloud rolled in overnight. A dense fog enveloped the area. Wind thundered and crested over the mountain. Rain pelted sideways against the wall of the shelter. The conditions continued as such all day long, ceasing briefly at times. I decided to take my first zero day at a shelter, spending most of it reading, talking, and eating. The Walking Wounded group and Deano all continued northbound at various times to brave the weather. Doose came in, soaked and fearing hypothermia, but quickly warmed himself up. Stryder, Baltimore Jack, and a few others passed through. Easy Day, Songbird, Pastor John, Emma, Sunflower, Turtle, and a few others came in for the night. Doose and I ventured out at separate intervals to fill up water bags for other hikers in the shelter. The short adventure left me soaked as though I’d been hiking for hours. A group of five high school seniors out doing a hike for a graduation project are crammed in here too. They handed out their extra Powerbars for us! It’s been altogether a very relaxing and cozy day. Life is good.
Doose returns with water
Saturday, June 02, 2001
Chestnut Knob Shelter-Helveys Mill Shelter
Today’s Miles: 24.1
Trip Miles: 570.8
I busted out on the trail in the early morning, while it was still overcast and windy. The terrain brought me along a lengthy, rocky ridgewalk with plentiful views, reminding me of the trail back home in Pennsylvania. The sun gradually showed its face, and it turned out to be a beautiful day. I came upon Seiko parked at a gravel road, dropping off Jiff, Manchester, and Baltimore Jack from a motel stay last night. They gave me peanut butter, gorp, donuts, and an egg and ham biscuit! Trail magic!
My shoes, socks, and feet got soaked through from fording Little Wolf Creek about a million times, and sloshing through mud. A long, uneventful ridgewalk took most of the afternoon, until I came to the road crossing that goes into Bastian and Bland. There, the trail crosses a highway overpass! It was so peculiar to see the cars and trucks whizz by underneath me. Going home from work, perhaps? On vacation? I wondered what they were thinking too, seeing a guy with a huge backpack up on this bridge – maybe “Don’t jump!” I could see a runaway truck ramp from where I stood, the first of which I’d seen on the road trip down here. Could we have driven on this same road? I resisted the temptation to give everybody the good ol’ full moon and continued on.
A good group of people are at the shelter tonight – Chewbacca, Jack, and Panama Red. Jiff and Manchester showed up well after dark. Jack said I misquoted some Bruce lyrics in the shelter registers. Impossible! Life is good.
Sunday, June 03, 2001
Helveys Mill Shelter-Dismal Creek Falls
Today’s Miles: 17.6
Trip Miles: 588.4
Most of the day again was a ridgewalk with a number of good views. Gotta love Virginia! The first ten miles went fairly quickly. I stopped often to check out the way the shadows from the clouds fell on the landscape, and thought I could hear a lawnmower away in the distance. Ah, summer. A couple headed southbound caught me chanting “We have the helmet!” to myself. These things happen quite often. A nearly two hour break for lunch was relaxing, at Jenny Knob Shelter. A woman day hiking there gave us cookies! Sweet! I crossed a cable suspension bridge late in the day, that swayed and rocked as my footsteps came down on the planks – very cool, a la Indiana Jones. I saw an old oak tree before the bridge. Its boughs were wider than most of the tree trunks around it! And unlike most trees of its sort, it surprisingly didn’t seem to be healthy, not dying.
Panama Red, Chewie, and I did the roadwalk trek to Trent’s Grocery. I was primarily motivated by the prospect of a cold bottle of Coke. We stuffed our faces as well, then headed up to this small waterfall to camp. A number of other hikers that we know were here when we arrived, including the Walking Wounded in full force. All the goodies brought up from the store are making for a virtual party atmosphere here tonight. The campfire is burning hot, and the moon is shining brightly. The falls roar. Life is good.
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Monday, June 04, 2001
Dismal Creek Falls-Woodshole Hostel
Today’s Miles: 12
Trip Miles: 600.4
It rained overnight again. There’s been a good deal of rain lately. It ceased briefly in the morning, just long enough for me to break down my tent, and it started up again – with thunder this time. I caught up behind Panama Red and Chewbacca after a period of getting wet and slushing through mud. “Hey,” one of them said, “Do you by any chance know the words to ‘Livin’ on a Prayer?’”
“Of course!” I said, and a footstomping rendition of Bon Jovi ensued.
WHOOOOAAA WHOOOOOAAA WE’RE HALFWAY THERE WHOOAA WHOOAA LIVIN ON A PRAYER TAKE MY AND AND WE’LL MAKE I SWEAR…..
Only in the woods. After the rain.
I took a long break for lunch, and there was magically not a cloud in the sky by the time I started moving again. Climbing up to the ridge, I came upon a couple hikers relaxing at a wide, spectacular overlook. I took a seat among the rocks, and spent much of the afternoon there, talking of things with others.
It was a perfect scene, as turkey vultures glided and swooped in the air. We’d step out to the edge of the rocks, imagining that we could fly and dive off and soar effortlessly over the landscape. The wind was at my back. I pictured the direction I’d go. Stepping back toward the trail, it felt as if indeed I had flown around the countryside in reality, but maybe perhaps in another dimension.
The rest of the hike to this hostel was uneventful, save for the feeling of existing at a higher level of being. I also startled a nearby deer that I had not even seen until it rushed up and charged away through the underbrush. the hostel is run by Tillie Wood, yet another “angel” of the trail, in an old renovated barn. There are cold Cokes here! Ah. I’m sleeping in the lower common area rather than the loft, because I’m sure it’s too stuffy up there. I can hear the crickets and the wind rustle in the trees from down here too. Life is good.
Tuesday, June 05, 2001
Woodshole Hostel-Pearisburg, VA
Today’s Miles: 10
Trip Miles: 610.4
Ah, it’s about time I treated myself to a motel room, and I have it all to myself! You should see the mess – hiking gear everywhere! It’s amazing how all my gear can be conviently packed one moment, then exploded everywhere the next. I thought I’d tune in here to this electric box called the television and see what I’ve been missing in the world. It didn’t take long for me to realize something – I’ve missed absolutely nothing! Nothing! TV is crap! I did, however, catch the above song, which seems to be all the rage – on VH1, at least. Some of the words made me think about my trip from an omniscent perspective.
I really boogied those ten miles into town this morning, fueled by the thought of an all you can eat buffet of pizza and soda that ends at one-thirty – which I didn’t know for sure until I got there, naturally. It was a cool, breezy way along the ridge through a tunnel of rhododendrons above my hair, and petals at my feet. I passed Baltimore Jack and Emma in one such tunnel, as well as Songbird and Easy Day. I think my tongue may have been hanging out from the thought of that pizza.
I stopped briefly to marvel at the views from Angel’s Rest and other points, admiring the turkey vultures soaring. I began to hear the sounds of town and civilization – a steady drone. Literally running down the mountainside once it began to descend, I found the trail to be thick, muddy mess. I slipped on a rock and took a fall – only my second since Springer – unscathed. Getting closer, wow, I could literally smell the pollution and smog in the air, mostly from the Celanese plant. This is what being out in the woods does to one’s senses.
I finally made it well in time for the buffet, and gorged to my satiation. The rest of the day was spent visiting the post office, laundromat, library, and grocery store – fun fun fun. This TV also tells me they’re calling for rain for something obscene like five straight days. The remnants of a hurricane – oh happy happy joy joy. Life is good.
Wednesday, June 06, 2001
Pearisburg, VA-Star Haven Shelter
Today’s Miles: 7.1
Trip Miles: 617.5
I checked out and began to leave town on a dark, forbidding morning. A local stopped me for a moment in the post office.
“You’d better not even THINK about going up into them mountains today,” he said, “It’s going to RAIN.”
He meant well, I suppose.
So there I was, making my way out down the main street, and it starts to come down in buckets. I pass yesterday’s pizza joint on the sidewalk, and I see Manchester, Jiff, and Doose inside waving at me – eating, happy and dry. It was too much for my meek discipline to handle, especially while getting soaked, so I went inside for buffet round two.
The rain paused by the time I was done,and the trail north took me near a place called Pearis Cemetary. It was very old and eerie as a thin mist sank toward the ground. Dark too – vegetation in cemetaries always seems to be different than trees and grass elsewhere. It was a small grove of sorts enclosed in woods, and all the grass and weeds were overgrown, as if it was some forgotten place. Indeed it was – most of the sparse headstones beared little marking. At one end there was a fence-high brick wall with four enclosed sides, forming a small square about ten by ten feet. A lone tree stood within, among some tall grass and a single headstone. An aged rusty gate let me enter, and I brushed the grass aside to read the headstone. It read “Captain George Pearis – Revolutionary War.” Ah, that explains the name “Pearis”burg! It was cool how his grave was set apart from the rest in such a subtle but significant way. As I turned away from the graveyard, a wind blew through and the rain returned.
Stepping back into the year 2001 and along the bridge over the New River, cars and trucks whizzed by in the rain – most probably going to and from the modern factory. I wonder what they thought as they saw me out getting soaked! Probably “Crazy fool!” The fumes belting from the smokestacks of the plant were thick and almost unbearable. It’s funny though, nobody in town would have a place to work if it didn’t exist. I think they manufacture cigarette filters.
A nearby creek ahead in the woods had practically orange water. There was a sign that read “Danger – do not drink – NATURALLY occurring bacteria.” Now who are they trying to kid? Ha. Naturally. It felt good to get away from the noise of town.
Now this shelter, ooh, it’s in a cow pasture on top of a mountain! It’s a beautiful place. The sunset would have been spectacular if it hadn’t been for the clouds. I caught Leatherfeet, Geckobunny, Drizzt, Moe, and Madcow. Life is good.
Pearis Cemetary
Thursday, June 07, 2001
Star Haven Shelter
Today’s Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 617.5
It was fun last night to watch the lightning approach from afar, feel the air pressure change, and see the fireflies fade away. A storm came through overnight, followed by a thick, heavy fog in the morning.
5:30 am. – I should get up now. Yeah right. (Roll over)
8:00 am. – Some poeple are packing up. Maybe I will too… Nah, I’ll sleep a little more.
9:30 am. – Cold Pop-Tarts for breakfast – well, crumbs, that is. I don’t feel quite like hiking yet. I’ll lie down and think about it.
12:00 pm. – Man, this is pathetic. I may as well have some lunch now…
2:00 pm. – Gee, it seems to be clearing up. If I were to pack up and go now, I could probably still get a solid day of hiking in…
2:01 pm. – Nah.
8:30 pm. – Good company, good sunset, good fire, good life.
sunset
Tennessee____The Appalachian Trail____Central/Northern Virginia
