West Virginia / Maryland____The Appalachian Trail____New Jersey / New York
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Friday, July 13, 2001
Deer Lick Shelters-Quarry Gap Shelters
Today’s Miles: 15.8
Trip Miles: 1057.3
It looks like PA, sounds like PA, feels like PA, hell, even smells like PA. It’s Pennsylvania! The same type of woods I’ve been romping around in since I was a wee lad.
I met a local trail maintainer, Ben H, and reunited briefly with Hiker Chic and Italian Scallion again as well. I hiked on with Madcow until about ten p.m., and bedded down here at this shelter on my second Friday the thirteenth of the journey.
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Saturday, July 14, 2001
Quarry Gap Shelters-Tom’s Run Shelter
Today’s Miles: 12.7
Trip Miles: 1070
Holy late start, Batman!
Maybe, uh, one o’clock when I started hiking? It’s all good. For the most part it was just a breezy ridgewalk today. Met the ridgerunner Gingerbread, and also saw some huge anthills! There were so many ants, I’ll bet they could take down a small mammal. Speaking of small mammals, the chipmunks at the spot where I had lunch were so brave that they’d come within inches of my feet!
Alvin, Simon,…Theodore!
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Sunday, July 15, 2001
Tom’s Run Shelter-Alec Kennedy Shelter
Today’s Miles: 19.2
Trip Miles: 1089.2
The halfway marker!
A great day. Stopped at a state park concession stand for lunch. Then, ah, yes, the halfway marker. I reflected on all the wonderful things that have happened over the last months, marveled that the experiences will be doubled, and so many other emotions. Continued onward and upward, bouncing along the trail in a great mood, and made a pit stop down a small road to yet another general store. Great places. Went to continue on seven more miles for the night, and came upon a fantastic view to the direct west, so I of course had to stay and watch it, then night hike on to the shelter. Italian Scallion and I were pleased to find the shelter empty.
Monday, July 16, 2001
Alec Kennedy Shelter-Carlisle, Pa.
Today’s Miles: 11.9
Trip Miles: 1101.1
Well, I finally ran out of mountain. The Blue Ridge mountain chain came to an end today, and I descended into the Cumberland Valley, and Boiling Springs, PA. The valley is fourteen miles of walking through cornfields and across roads, until the trail finds the mountains again. I finally caught Leatherfeet and others in town. We began the valley walk, and got no less than fifty cars and trucks (especially trucks with the universal symbol) to honk and wave at us! It was SO much fun! I nearly died of smiling and laughing, and pumping my arm, as did Tumbleweed and Happy Feet when they stumbled upon us in action. I think we spent close to an hour doing it – by that time the truckers were probably on the CB’s talking about us.
At one point this afternoon a helicopter flew overhead as Leatherfeet and I were trekking through the fields, and we remarked to each other how the walk for a little while felt almost like a Vietnam scene. Here we were, myself and this kid from Georgia that regards me as “yankee,” sweating through open fields carrying our provisions in the hot sun, two comrades sharing a common goal and interest. It could easily have been a scene from thirty years ago… I’m glad to live in relatively more peaceful times. We stopped for a break at an old overgrown graveyard slightly off the trail, with graves dating back to the Civil War. He was pulling stones out of the wall surrounding it, half expecting to stumble on war treasure of solid gold bars.
The turnpike passes through this valley with all the luxuries of a major highway stop, so I’m halfway through the valley and enjoying air conditioning tonight.
Tuesday, July 17, 2001
Carlisle, Pa.-Duncannon, Pa.
Today's Miles: 17.7
Trip Miles: 1118.8
Hiked through the rest of the valley, back into the mountains and finally the town of Duncannon! I'm so glad to be here. I was jumping up and down in the street at the end of the day and Sugardaddy wanted to break my legs - he'd done twenty-six miles. I'm staying at the infamous Doyle Hotel. It's very old and frankly, a bit of a dump. Still, it has charm and character. Apparently they're renovating the place - in other words - they changed the sheets! Maybe next year they'll vacuum the floors....ha. I was told that was the condition of the place by another hiker, and it's true! Still, there's a good bar and a jukebox downstairs, and this town is another major landmark for me.
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Wednesday, July 18, 2001
Duncannon, Pa.
Today's Miles: 1.2
Trip Miles: 1120
Left town with little sleep, and dehydrated on a hot day after a long night at the Doyle. The climb was miserable. A belly full of way too much Stromboli made matters worse, feeling sick. Halfway up, I actually thought "screw this" and turned around and went back to town. This time I got a real motel room, with air conditioning. Downed a quart of Gatorade, and passed out.
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Thursday, July 19, 2001
Duncannon, Pa.-Peter's Mountain Shelter
Today's Miles: 10.1
Trip Miles: 1130.1
Hiked out of town for real this time. Set up my tent for a midday nap, slept, then later continued on. Enjoyed the evening with Sugardaddy, Some Dork, Panzer, and Eggman, and went to bed.
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Friday, July 20, 2001
Peter's Mountain Shelter-Rausch Gap Shelter
Today's Miles: 17.5
Trip Miles: 1147.6
The huge stromboli from came out the other end of me today, and man, it was pretty - sidelining me for over an hour. After that though the rest of the day went quite well, cruising along at a great pace despite a million and a half blowdowns/logs strewn across the trail. Are they here to keep away the ATV's? In any event, it's another enjoyable evening here with the same group. The side trail to this shelter was suprisingly flat, and especially pretty too.
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Saturday, July 21, 2001
Rausch Gap Shelter-501 Shelter
Today's Miles: 17.5
Trip Miles: 1165.1
The "spring" at the shelter filled up overnight to our delight, as it was dry last night. All of the hiking for most of the day was typical Pennsylvania ridgewalking, with the exception of the more scenic areas and a road crossing in the morning, through some fields and swamp like areas.
This shelter tonight is the lap of luxury - it's on the property of a caretaker's house, has four walls, a skylight, and we got to order pizza! We caught Happy Feet and Tumbleweed, which is nice too. I'm looking forward to walking on "home turf" tomorrow - a part of the trail that I've already done last summer!
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Sunday, July 22, 2001
501 Shelter-Eagle's Nest Shelter
Today's Miles: 15
Trip Miles: 1180.1
I've stayed at this shelter twice before, last summer. I'm almost home. I went through the Hertlein Campsite today, a special place to me, as it's the furthest south I'd ever been on the AT. I had lunch there and wandered around for a while. And now I'm here. I know the terrain. It's incredible. The last time I slept here was last September - and I met the southbounders Apollo and Man on the Moon, wondering what it was like to be them, planning my own thru hike. Now I am the thru-hiker! It's been a long way home.
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Monday, July 23, 2001
Eagle's Nest Shelter-Allentown, Pa.
Today's Miles: 8.4
Trip Miles: 1188.5
I hiked into Port Clinton, looking for a pay phone to call home and be picked up, to no avail. A past thru-hiker named Mean offered me a ride closer to the highway to call. He was already driving Happy Feet and Tumbleweed to a cobbler. I accepted. So excited to be going home - I left my hiking stick in his car. DOAH! Maybe I'll see it again, but maybe not. Oh well. It had come with me from Georgia.
Well, I'm at home! It's very, uh, very weird to be here. My step dad said I nearly made him sick from my stench in the car. My mother grimaced at the sight of the fuzzy growth on my chin. I ate, and ate, and ate. I got to see all my pictures. It's funny - the trail already seems to be like some sort of far off fantasy land, almost as if I'd never been there at all, and imaginary friends there too...
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Tuesday, July 24, 2001
Allentown, Pa.
Today's Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 1188.5
At home, visited friends. Listened to music, including that "new" Bruce Springsteen CD. Ran some errands.
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Wednesday, July 25, 2001
Allentown, Pa.
Today's Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 1188.5
At home. Saw more friends. Slept much. My brother visited.
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Thursday, July 26, 2001
Allentown, Pa.
Today's Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 1188.5
At home. Lounged around. Ate food. Had dinner with my dad and brother.
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Friday, July 27, 2001
Allentown, Pa.
Today's Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 1188.5
At home. I need to get out of here. Insanity.
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Saturday, July 28, 2001
Allentown, Pa.
Today's Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 1188.5
At home. More final errands. They took my picture at the local outfitter. That was cool.
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Sunday, July 29, 2001
Allentown, Pa.-Windsor Furnace Shelter
Today's Miles: 6.1
Trip Miles: 1194.6
Back on the trail at last. Got dropped off in the late afternoon, and did a short hike to this familiar shelter. I haven't seen a soul. I'm all alone here tonight. Am I the last northbound thru-hiker or something?
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Monday, July 30, 2001
Windsor Furnace Shelter-Eckville Shelter
Today's Miles: 9.1
Trip Miles: 1203.7
Slept in very late at the shelter. I guess I didn't get as much rest at home as I thought. Still hardly saw a soul on the climb up to Pulpit Rock (another familiar place), and on top - who was up there but none other than Randy! Randy from all the way back at Goose Creek. I thought he was off the trail. Apparently not! He updated me on more people still behind as well. He goes by "Freebird" now. Awesome.
Further on at The Pinnacle, looking back toward Allentown, I met Rabbit Hutch, and then caught Skipper down at this shelter. Grasshopper came rolling in later too. Things are all good once again.
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Tuesday, July 31, 2001
Eckville Shelter-Bake Oven Knob Shelter
Today's Miles: 17.4
Trip Miles: 1221.1
The infamous Pennsylvania rocks finally bared some teeth today. They're not so bad, though. This is all still home turf to me. I met three guys that just graduated from Parkland High School - near Allentown, naturally. Some heavy rain fell in the evening, but Skipper and I got to the Blue Mountain B&B on Route 309 just in the knick of time. We sat on their porch and watched the rain come down for at least an hour or so.
Moved on when it showed some signs of letting up, which took some self-discipline. It was only half an hour back home in a car from that road crossing...
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Wednesday, August 01, 2001
Bake Oven Knob Shelter-Slatington, Pa.
Today's Miles: 7.4
Trip Miles: 1228.5
A bit of fitting Bob Seager for you...
"Stood there boldly, sweatin' in the sun
Felt like a million felt like number one
It was the height of summer, never felt that strong
Like a rock.
I was eighteen, didn't have a care
Workin' for peanuts, not a dime to spare
I was lean and solid everywhere
Like a rock.
And I stood arrow straight
Unencumbered by the weight of all these
Hustlers and their schemes
I stood proud
I stood tall
High above it all
I still believed in my dreams.
Like a rock..."
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Thursday, August 02, 2001
Slatington, PA-Wind Gap, PA
Today's Miles: 20.7
Trip Miles: 1249.2
Today's hike began by crossing the Lehigh River, and gazing up at the sheer heap of rocks before me - the EPA Superfund Site. The fumes from a former zinc smelting plant in Palmerton killed all the vegetation on the mountainside, and the dirt subsequently eroded away, leaving the moon-like landscape in front of me. I looked at it as the last obstacle of Pennsylvania, barring my way north and trying to keep me in my home state. The bridge is thirty minutes from my bed in Allentown.
That said, I had so much fun climbing it. There were short vertical cliffs at times where I had to grope for handholds to boist myself up, calculating each foot placement with caution. The expansive views were inspiring, and a great breeze blew along the open rock, very welcomed on this hot day. Turkey Vultures soared near and above. It was a fulfilling personal accomplishment to hike this section, especially as a thru-hiker, as it had always an intimidating day hike for me. Today I enjoyed it thoroughly.
I simply followed the relatively flat ridgeline the rest of the afternoon, over much terrain that I had done before.
I saw a porcupine at dusk! It turned defensivly toward me and raised its hundreds of sharp quills like the hair of a cat. Needless to say, I gave it a wide berth, thankful to have seen one. It was just about dark when I got here for the night.
Friday, August 03, 2001
Wind Gap, PA-Delaware Water Gap, PA
Today's Miles: 15.6
Trip Miles: 1264.8
For the most part, the trail today was just a narrow green tunnel. A narrow, rocky green tunnel. It seemed to be the grand finale of rocks at the end of the state - big ones, small ones, sharp ones, hamburger shaped ones, steak shaped ones, french fry shaped ones... mmm. Views of the Delaware River were satisfying to see - it's such a symbol. Near the end of the day I came to the awesome scene and beauty that is the Delaware Water Gap - a steep cliff cut into the mountains by the river and ice age glaciers.
The town of DWG is tight and kind of charming too. I'm staying in the basement of the Presbytarian Church tonight, where there's a great hostel. It's simply wonderful, no doubt because of the people that volunteer for the church. There's a good diner here in town too - I miss diners. Well, off to take a much needed shower and soak up all the atmosphere around here!
The Delaware River
Saturday, August 04, 2001
Delaware Water Gap, PA
Today's Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 1264.8
One night at the hostel- $3.00 donation
Jazz club cover charge- $5.00
Coke- Much $$$
Food- Much more $$$
Phone call home- $0.10 a minute? Probably not.
The best company in the world- Free.
A ZERO day on the Appalachian Trail- Priceless
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Sunday, August 05, 2001
Delaware Water Gap, PA
Today's Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 1264.8
Okay, so I'm taking another zero day here. I just can't help it. A number of friends that I hadn't seen since way back in souther Virginia have finally caught me. It's so good to see them. I was thinking that most of them had left the trail! There's been a grand reunion. I mostly just hung around all day, and Skipper, Freebird, and I are having a power writing session tonight to catch up our journals. The summer heat is really setting in. I set my black watch outside on a black chair on top of the dark driveway in the middle of the afternoon. The thermometer in it read ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY-TWO DEGREES! That's insane! Granted, the dark colors soak up a lot of heat, but still, that's hot! It went down to about a hundred/high nineties in the shade. Yikes. Regardless - things just couldn't be better.
West Virginia / Maryland____The Appalachian Trail____New Jersey / New York
