Down The Trail

New Jersey / New York__The Appalachian Trail__Vermont / Trail Days 2002

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Tuesday, August 21, 2001
Kent, CT-Stewart Hollow Brook Lean-to
Today’s Miles: 7
Trip Miles: 1446.1

I think this is the first time I’m sleeping inside a shelter in at least a week. Dolphin Boy and Indian Summer left town well before me, and I spent some time picking around the library and restaurants. Climbing back into the mountains was a cinch. Descending St. John’s Ledges was not.

It was a very steep, rocky way down, with some mammoth steps to take down between rocks – more like sit, slide butt, drop, repeat. Handholds (Unsuspecting saplings) were hard to come by too. I think I would have rather gone UP that thing, which would have been no piece of cake task either.

The rest of the hike was a piece of cake after that. Wouldn’t that be something? If the hiking actually TRANSFORMED into a nice big piece of chocolate cake? With sprinkles too… mmmmmmmmmm. And icing, and maybe chocolate chips in it too, a bottle of whipped cream on the side, and…..

Ahem.

The end of the day was a flat stretch that followed the Housatonic River. Across a wide point on the other side of the river, apparently accessible by road, there was a lone guy sitting on a log, strumming away at an acoustic guitar. The sound came loud and clear to me – I seemed to vaguely recognize what he was playing but couldn’t place it. I also saw a great blue heron swoop and glide over the ripples of water – a bird I’m fortunate enough to spot in a park at home on occasion, but awesome to see here regardless.

I’m alone in the shelter tonight with Tenderfoot – surprisingly another northbound hiker. This is the only shelter along the whole trail I think that apparently doesn’t have any devices to hang food that protect against mice, so I made one of my own from a peanut butter jar lid all McGuyver-like.

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Wednesday, August 22, 2001
Stewart Hollow Brook Lean-to-Cornwall Bridge, CT
Today’s Miles: 4.1
Trip Miles: 1450.2

I didn’t really get enough rest in Kent, so I thought I’d go into Cornwall Bridge today. I slept in, then spent some of morning hanging out with Tenderfoot, went back to sleep, then spent some more time sitting around before I began hiking. I finished the river walk along the Housatonic that began yesterday, then ascended a bit before beginning the roadwalk into town.

While crossing the bridge, a guy on a bicycle far below the bridge along the river called up to me, “Where ya headed?” We awkwardly had a shouting conversation for a few minutes, as it was diffult for me to make out what he was saying over the noise of the traffic behind me. He said he goes camping up at Baxter State Park every now and then and mentioned to me how beautiful it is. He also sounded kind of like the actor that plays the flight instructor in Top Gun…

Ahhhhhhh, yes. I will sleep well tonight.

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Thursday, August 23, 2001
Cornwall Bridge, CT
Today’s Miles: 0
Trip Miles: 1450.2

I’m taking a zero day here today – not really sure exactly why. I woke up pretty late, and guess I just feel I still need one more day’s rest. I know I can’t really afford to take many more zeros… but what the heck.
There’s a Philadelphia Eagles preseason football game on tv tonight. It’s sort of hard to believe it’s that time of year already – the NBA season was far from over when I started hiking! Anyway, I just wanted to say that the Eagles are the team this year!

Ahhhh…. Tv….

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Friday, August 24, 2001
Cornwall Bridge, CT-Belter Campsite
Today’s Miles: 11.1
Trip Miles: 1461.3

It turned out that I stayed in the same place with Khaos, Sherpa, and Puck last night. They were a foursome a few days before, until they stepped over a bee’s nest on the trail and were swarmed! The friend they were hiking with had swelled up pretty badly, spent the night in the hospital, and since went home. They were stung innumerable times themselves and tried to relate to me the utter horror of the experience. I could see that they were still very spooked. Bees always get nasty this time of the year.

I hiked nearly the whole day with them, and the miles seemed to go by quickly. It was humid early but soon turned into a beautiful, clear day. We passed a cool spot with a short runway where hang gliders can launch from, and marvelled at how exhilarating hang gliding would be – the closest thing to flying.

During one point at dusk, Puck was leading the way, followed by Sherpa, and finally myself. Puck later said she was just about to turn around and sing a song lyric back to me when all of a sudden she jumps back about a million feet and screams “Rattlesnake!”

The following moment was pretty amusing, as she and Sherpa were stepping back, I was stepping forward, pushing and shoving them out of the way going “Where, where?!” And of course, there it was, and I was so happy to finally get to see one. Ah-ha! Duct Tape has finally tracked down the wily Rattlesnake!

But it didn’t rattle at us, and oh… I so wanted to hear it rattle, just to know what it sounds like. It was so well behaved though, and Puck and Sherpa weren’t too keen about that prospect in the first place and talked me out of it. They explained how it’s “bad snake karma” to get a snake pissed off at humans, opening the possibility that the next person that comes along may not have such a good experience. That made a lot of sense to me. It was a courteous rattlesnake too, eventually slithering off the trail as if to allow us to pass, and after we did so, it resumed its position on the trail! Very nice.

Puck later remarked that she always feels lucky when she sees a rattlesnake. Sherpa added that we ARE lucky, because this type is an endangered species! The whole experience really made my day. Tonight I’m tented on a bed of soft needles among some cool pine trees. It’s such a peaceful evening. The mosquitoes attack yet again, but it’s no matter, I’m beginning to feel a sort of Fall-ish feeling in the air, which will soon kill all of them off!

HAHA!!! DIE, MOSQUITOES, DIE!!!!!

Uh, excuse me.

Lovin’ it.

rattlesnake!

Saturday, August 25, 2001
Belter Campsite-Sages Ravine
Today’s Miles: 18.1
Trip Miles: 1479.4

Finally a good, long, solid day, and a georgeous one at that!

An early start on this Saturday morning was mucho helpful. There was a small coffee shop type place not far off the trail that was open for breakfast. I of course took them up on it, and let me tell you, the place was hopping! I downed some good food, and met the young ridgerunner Mountain Goat, having breakfast as well. He hiked north out of there, and I eventually followed.

It was a beautiful morning, and this was boosted significantly by my caffeine/sugar high and a very forgiving, flat stretch of trail for a few miles. The trail went down a side road right in front of a local high school and its cross-country team ran by me. Ah, to go back to those days… I wished them all a good season.

Soon afterward I came to a waterfall aptly named Great Falls, and took a long refreshing break there. Boy, did I feel great. It was spectacular, with a number of smooth rocky ledges. There was even a small overhang in one corner that would have been incredible to sleep under on a starry night.

I hiked alone for a breezy seven miles up Prospect Mountain and through some lovely woods, until I came to a road that leads into Salisbury, Connecticut. Meryl Streep apparently lives right near the trail in this area. Big whoop. I walked into town to check out the outfitter stores for a new pair of shoes, but they didn’t have anything I was interested in. There was a cool hot dog stand guy on a corner, with one of the wheelie things and an umbrella – you know, the old fashioned kind! I felt great about giving him ample patronage, and bumped into Mountain Goat again in town.

Leaving town was a beautiful walk too. Okay it was ALL a beautiful walk today. I wound through a poignant field and past a cemetary before climbing up to the Lion’s Head view. It was such a clear day and a significantly great view, which is saying a lot, because at this point many of the views just look the same. The day hikers there amused me greatly, because they’d huff and puff all the way up to this great place, only to spend less than five minutes here and then walk right back down! I mean, if you’re going to go to the trouble of coming to a spot like this, take some time at the top to enjoy it. Of course, maybe my grizzly, stinky presence scared them off! Hmmm…

Of course, there were also some very pretty young girls that I enjoyed explaining all about the trail to ever so much.

Mountain Goat was there too, and he took my picture for me. I proceeded north and met him again at Riga Lean-to, where he’d stay the night. He explained how the sun rised directly within view of the shelter in the morning, and it was very tempting for me to stay there as well, but I knew I had to keep moving on. I made it to Sages Ravine just as it was dark. It’s getting dark so much earlier these days. I’m sure Puck and Sherpa are probably only two miles ahead or so. What a good day, from the earlier morning to the late evening.

Great Falls

Sunday, August 26, 2001
Sages Ravine-South Egremont, MA
Today’s Miles: 10.9
Trip Miles: 1490.3

I crossed the border into Massachusetts today.

I was up and hiking before it was even light out! Very nice. I got to the Bear Rock Campsite about half an hour after Sherpa and Puck left – just missed them. I spent some time chatting with a ridgerunner and went onward up Race Mountain. The trail on this mountain was very exposed, walking along a cliff of sorts, and it was awesome! Getting an early start took its toll though by the time I got to Race Brook, where I took a long break and ate a large amount of english muffin/pepperoni sandwhiches. I met a day hiker going down Mount Everett as I was going up.

“How far ya headed?” he asked.

“Katahdin…”

“You’re runnin’ a little late, aren’t ya?”

“Yeah,” I said, agreeing, “It’ll be close.” He looked at me up and down, as if to size me up, then smiled and affirmed, nodding his head,

“You’ll make it.”

Monday, August 27, 2001
South Egremont, MA-Great Barrington, MA
Today’s Miles: 3.6
Trip Miles: 1493.9

Today was a very short hike into the town of Great Barrington. I was curious to find out the winning Powerball number, because it’s apparently up to some obscene amount so I bought a ticket in Cornwall Bridge. Cyborg was the only hiker that I saw. It was three miles into the town from the trail, and I decided to walk the distance instead of hitchiking for some reason. On the way I came to a little hotdog/hamburger stand and thought I’d stop there to eat even before getting to the heart of town, knowing I probably had two more miles or so to go. A guy there asked about my trip, and the lady through the window must have overheard. “What’s the total for the food?” I asked.

“This will be on us today,” she said.

!

Tuesday, August 28, 2001
Great Barrington, MA-Tom Leonard Lean-to
Today’s Miles: 6.4
Trip Miles: 1500.3

After a good, hot breakfast of pancakes and sausage, I finally made my way out of town. I walked the distance to the traihead, which was a little bit of a hike in itself. There were a few picturesque backroads that the trail wound me along before heading out of the valley and back into the mountains. I met a southbounder along there named Yoda – a cool name. There were some good views and neat little rock scrambles when I reached the ridge, and it looked almost like some rain was on the way. The wind blew through my hair.
Upon reaching the shelter still slightly early in the day, I met a young couple out for a few days. I debated a few moments whether to stay or go. It looked like it could rain, but then again, maybe not. I chose to stay, rather than continue on in the gloominess. It’s beginning to get dark a lot earlier.

What do you know, Yahtzee rolled in! I thought he was ahead of me. He immediately went into cursing and complaining about how he missed the side trail to the shelter, because there was no sign. Then we informed him there was apparently no spring or water source here, which really pissed him off! He was cursing so much – the couple that was there sort of made themselves scarce! It cracked me up. I guess you just can’t get any peace out here near some of us thru hikers…

A southbounder arrived, so now it will be the three of us in the shelter, and the couple out in a tent. It’s great to be again with another Katahdin bound hiker. We vowed to do big miles tomorrow. It’s so neccessary at this point. Well, time for bed.

Race Mountain

Wednesday, August 29, 2001
Tom Leonard Lean-to-Upper Goose Pond
Today’s Miles: 21.1
Trip Miles: 1521.4

Yahtzee was out and hiking just after dawn. I was up and out maybe two hours later, after lingering around and going down to Ice Gulch where there was indeed water after all. I was going at a good pace when I came upon Benedict Pond – absolutely beautiful so of course I had to stop and take a break. The hiking slowed after that and I took another long break in a nice area of pines later for lunch. There I met an energetic southbounder.

“Do you want some candy?” he asked.

“Sure, thanks,” I said, mildy surpirsed at the peculiar offer, “I’m Duct Tape.”

“I’m Candyman.”

A-ha! Something like that is so amusing to me. He told me all about Upper Goose Pond and the cabin and the caretaker that makes pancakes and the great canoe. He told me he took two zero days with Spyro and just sat out on the lake all day. It sounds like pure bliss. I decided that I would make it there tonight, even though I would surely run out of daylight very soon. We chatted for a little while, then he bounced along on his way.

Soon I had a minor dilemma on my hands. The water source I was counting on, about eight and half miles from my destination, four hours of hiking or so, was practically dry. My bottles were empty. There was no water to count on between here and there, but I checked my map and it looked as though it showed about three small streams, one of which was named and everything. I continued on. They turned out to be shallow, mucky, muddy messes, and not streams at all – hardly even puddles. Thankfully I came upon a trail maintainer and asked him about the water sources in the area. He said not to drink them, they flow from cow pastures! Augh! He told me there’s some good tent spots in the area though, and asked how much further I planned on heading. No red flags from this guy, so I told him I hoped to get all the way to Goose Pond yet. His face suddenly changed and he gazed at me as if I was a crazy man.

“Well, hope you have a good flashlight,” he said.

We parted, and it was dark soon enough. About the water situation – It dawned on me that I used to do my sixteen mile plus marathon training runs without so much as a drop of water. I had about eight miles to get to the pond. Plus, the nights are getting cool and the sun was down, so I figured that I wouldn’t sweat as much as usual. I could make it without the water. It weighs too much anyway.

So I hiked into the night, and the miles went by as they do… until something utterly frightening went down.

My headlamp reflected off something. Two dots, about ten yards or so to the left of the trail. They were probably two little surveyor’s or hunter’s reflective stickers, which I often see on trees while night hiking. The path brought me closer. Oh shit.

They were eyes.

Looking at me.

I stopped dead in my tracks and turned to get a look. They blinked, and sort of shook. My light gave no clue as to what it was – just eyes. A raccoon, I thought, a porcupine… but no, something seemed different. These eyes were yellow like a cat’s. I swear. And set fairly wide apart. AND considerably high off the ground.

Now the scary part is this – everything in the past five months has ran away from me – the squirrels, the rabbits, the deer, and hell, especially the bears would even take off like an arrow at the awareness of my presence.

This thing wasn’t going anywhere. It was staring, and interested. Did I mention that I was alone in the middle of the friggin woods in the thick dark of night. I took some slow steps ahead, watching it.

And oh yes, the eyes turned, following my movement.

I inched ahead gradually, until finally those eyes were out of sight. Then I picked up the pace. A lot. Got the hell out of there. Okay, so I couldn’t help but think the words “mountain lion.” It was probably just a raccoon sitting up on a stump… but you know, whatever. I feared a cat-like pursuit in the night for at least the next hour.

The miles wore on, and thirst soon became the primary thought in my mind, and mountain lions a bit of a memory. Finally, yes, I came upon Upper Goose Pond. I think it was about ten thirty, and I found a spot on the trail where I could climb down to the water and get a drink.

Oh, it was so beautiful. The moon was out and reflected and shimmered on the wind blown, flowing crests in the water. Stars shined, as they do, above the shadows of the treetops on the far shores. Small waves lapping up on the shore were really the only sound, aside from the slight rustle of leaves in the trees. All was quiet and peaceful and good. I sat and filtered and drank to my content. I shivered from the chill air – the season’s change.

After a half hour of circumnavigating the trails around the pond, I was at the cabin at last. All was dark and silent, and I stealthily picked my way in by headlamp. The caretaker and others I assumed were asleep in the cots upstairs, and there was a single cot on that first floor, as if it was there just for me so I wouldn’t disturb the others with my stumbling in so late. I layed my head down to rest, among four walls and a roof.

Benedict Pond

Thursday, August 30, 2001
Upper Goose Pond-Dalton, MA
Today’s Miles: 20.6
Trip Miles: 1542

Back to back twenty mile days! Maybe I’ll get to Katahdin before it becomes a glacier after all…
I owe it all to coffee and spectacular weather. Okay, maybe just coffee. I woke up in the six o’clock hour to the sounds and smells of coffee brewing and pancakes being made. Now that’s an awesome caretaker

Yahtzee was surprised I made it. He was the only other hiker there. We ate breakfast out on the front porch facing the pond. We all got to talking and great conversation and ended up hanging around most of the morning. It was so nice there; it would have been great to stay and take a zero on the dock or out in the canoe, or even on that porch. And yes, it had a wooden screen door. We did the dishes and I eventually pulled myself away. It must be sweet to be the caretaker there.

I hauled ass all day long like a hiking machine and loved it. I felt so good. My only extended break was off the trail a little at a road crossing, in the yard of the famous Cookie Lady’s house – a sweet elderly couple who offer water from their tap to hikers and occasionally give out home baked cookies too. None of those today, but so what, what a great stop. They have a little blueberry patch too where they sell “pick your own” blueberries. Very nice. An outing group from Williams College(freshman) kept me company during the respite.

The trail descended into the town of Dalton close to dusk – a landmark for me, as I have a maildrop and my cold weather gear (My sleeping bag!) waiting at the post office. It seems to be a half industrial sort of blue collar town, a nice change from the “distinguished,” yuppified hamlets here in New England I’ve passed through. I found Tom’s house, a great guy who invites hikers to stay the night on his front porch. Nobody was around, but there were some packs there, so I dropped mine and went off to explore and get a hot dinner! I had two great cheesesteaks and got back after dark to find Yahtzee and two section hikers there at Tom’s. We spoke of some more ambitious miles to catch friends ahead of us. My body’s pretty beat. We’ll see.

Upper Goose Pond

Yahtzee

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Friday, August 31, 2001
Dalton, MA-Crystal Mountain
Today’s Miles: 4.7
Trip Miles: 1546.7

I spent most of the day in town today. I felt very spent and exhausted. Getting up early for breakfast with the others didn’t really help that situation much! It was a great meal, of course, then I packed up and headed to the post office, where I was finally reunited with my sleeping bag! Oh my warm purple friend, how I missed you. At that point it would have been wise to start hiking out of town, but I lingered in the library a while, as well as a pizza joint. Eventually I did get out late in the afternoon, and spied Ronin making use of the laundromat.

I got a few miles in by dark, to Crystal Mountain. It’s looking like rain. There’s no other thru hikers here, but it’s funny, I’m tented near a kid who’s on his first night out – brand spanking new nalgene bottles and all. He plans to hike southbound all the way down to Springer. He seems so nervous and green… it seems like so long ago when I was like that. Hell, the trail is as comfortable as home to me now.

Or maybe more so.

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Saturday, September 01, 2001
Crystal Mountain-Mount Greylock
Today’s Miles: 12.3
Trip Miles: 1559

Today is the first day of Septmeber. I am staying tonight on top of Mount Greylock, the highest point in Massachusetts. It is awesome.

One hell of a storm blew through overnight, and the rain poured on unceasingly until well after daylight broke behind the clouds. I of course took note of all this fading in and out of sleep inside my tent, reacquainted with my beloved sleeping bag. I began to stir and pack up after the rain stopped for good, and realized that there was a significant puddle at the foot of my tent! The seams must be leaking after all.

Packing up my soaked, muddy tent, I was well on my way before long. Soon I came to and admired the view from a place called The Cobbles, looking over the most peaceful looking town you can picture – Cheshire. This sort of scene was exactly what I pictured the trail in New England to be, standing over a little hamlet with a sea of white birch and at least fifteen hundred feet of elevation between us. Last night’s storm had washed everything clean, the sky cleared, and a wind that felt like autumn made its way to me. The hump of Mount Greylock dominated the opposing horizon of the landscape.

Fitting for the first day of September.

Soon I found myself ambling through the residential town, down the street and past the post office, around the corner and soon back into the woods, to tackle the ascent up Greylock. I met a northbounder named Flying Bear on the way up, he was slacking south and told me that Mojo and Tenderfoot were probably just ahead. As far as he knew, they were planning on stealth camping in what is apparently an emergency shelter on the summit, off limits to hikers. I made the final decision to may as well go for it too. I also met the ridgerunner and a college outing group during a quick stop at the Mark Noepel lean to, halway up.

The forest the rest of the way to the summit was unique to any other I’ve seen so far – lots of different evergreens and a whole different “feel” to the area. It was very nice, and the clear sky and chilled wind reminded me of a crisp autumn day.

Now I am indeed here for the night with Mojo and Tenderfoot inside the skiers “emergency” shelter, and it’s quite a cozy place! Four walls and a roof, and two big heavy doors!

The feeling of the area on top of this mountain is pretty much undescribable. It is somewhat paved and populated, yes, but it’s done tastefully, and the landmark observation tower shines like a beacon. The views are great as usual, the sunset was nice, and it is COLD up here! Down near freezing temperatures, I believe. I feel bad for the other two guys who don’t have their fall/winter gear yet. The cold outside makes this room all the more comfortable though, and it’s incredible how this misty sort of cloudy fog is drifting through – the way it shows in front of the light on the tower and in front of the moon… but you can still see the clear sky and stars behind, is too cool. I love this place.

The Cobbles over Cheshire

Sunday, September 02, 2001
Mount Greylock-Williamstown, MA
Today’s Miles: 6.3
Trip Miles: 1565.3

Remember the mist that I said was floating in last night as I went to sleep? Well, it went down and rested in the valleys overnight, and we awoke to find that the mountaintop had become an island in a sea of blanketed, white fog! It was spectacular! The sun rose and shined right on in where we were sleeping, and Tenderfoot and I were simply amazed. Today is a Sunday, and we laughed about how everybody living in these valleys in Mass will wake up, look out the window, and not see a thing but thick fog and clouds! They’ll think it’s a lousy day, roll over, and go back to sleep, while we’re high above and in awe of this beautiful clear morning! Ah, the wonders of the trail…

But wow, was it FRIGID out this morning! Whew! I saw my breath in the air for the first time since Georgia, making my way to the Bascom Lodge on the other side of the summit, where I treated myself to the hot breakfast they serve there. Pancakes, sausage, and coffee were great! I said coffee! The sun was up and burned the mist away by the time I was moving north, and it became another lovely, clear, crisp day. Today’s hike was essentially just a descent from the peak to the road to Williamstown, where I paused to resupply for food and now find myself staying the night – the lure of town. Tomorrow it’s back up in the mountains… and into VERMONT!

This is the Labor Day weekend, and it feels like it down here. The trail came out of the woods at the end of a dead end street in a residential neighborhood, and it’s like everybody’s out enjoying the weekend before it’s back to work and school for them. It’s funny to look at the washed cars in driveways, birdfeeders, mowed lawns, and all the other accompaniments of residential living. I’m so out of touch with all of this, and how a summer has come and gone without any of it is a little weird. But it was just refreshing to walk down such a street, that’s all.

Greylock is so prominent in the background of the landscape here. But that’s all I guess it really is in the daily life of the area, a scenic background. That is, except for when a grungy, stinky, smelly, unsavory looking hiker guy walks down the middle of the street in front of your house, gazing around as if he’s never seen a basketball hoop in a driveway before!

So here I am calculating again how many miles per day I have to average in order to get to Katahdin before such and such date. This seems like all I do anymore.

New Jersey / New York__The Appalachian Trail__Vermont / Trail Days 2002