The fact that the Old Hance Trail is is still referred to as a “trail” is amazing. It lost its “trail status” before the year 1900, when one of the Canyon’s first true hardy pioneers, John Hance, gave up on this original route and constructed the New Hance Trail. The term “route” is even generous and flattering, as it is assigned to such places as the Escalante Route and Utah Flats Route, which are now well-cairned paths and comparably simple to follow.
For the adventure-seeking Grand Canyon hiker, the old trailhead may be found on the far east side of where the east arm of Hance Creek meets the rim, between Buggeln Picnic Area and The New Hance Trail. It’s directly across from a fire road (With space along it that’s good for parking). The north side of the highway here is lined by an old curb. Several rock spires of Kaibab Limestone mark the spot. Descend the easternmost gully and you should soon find steep, brush-choked switchbacks leading into the canyon. Don’t get used to this, as this is the clearest section of “trail” you’ll encounter.
As soon as possible, you – you crazy Grand Canyon scrambler – you’ll want to traverse to the next drainage to the west, near the foot of the closest tower of Kaibab Limestone. Descend directly down this second gully – it should be little more than a loose rockslide. Follow this all the way through the Coconino Sandstone. Eventually the boulders in this chute get larger, and forward progress becomes much more difficult. It’s here that you’ll need to make your way up the slope east, on which lies the route through the Supai. It may be necessary to backtrack to find a safe way up.
Once at or near the crest of this slope, the head of the Redwall Limestone in upper Hance Creek should be visible, and you’ll need to make your way toward it as best you can. Some cairns may be found through here, but any semblance of a beaten path vanishes just as soon as it appears. The head of the Redwall is divided by a distintive fin of rock – stay to the east side of this, and the steep slope through the Redwall should eventually present itself – perhaps not until you’re on top of it. Again, some of the way may be cairned, but don’t count on it. Once through the Redwall, simply follow the creekbed to the Tonto Trail. There are a few obstacles in the upper section of the canyon, but if your route-finding skills got you this far, locating the bypasses should not be a problem.
I hiked, scrambled, and tumbled down The Old Hance Trail on June 25, 2009, and continued on down Hance Creek to Sockdolager Rapid, effectually hiking from the rim to the Colorado River without the aid of a trail. The following is an account of that hike – with photos, of course.
sunrise from a random viewpoint along Desert View Drive
looking west from Grandview Point, just after sunrise
This is where the Old Hance Trail leaves the rim. The proper drainage is on the far left side of this photo.
Sinking Ship to the west
Coronado Butte, north and east
the best, easiest to follow section of “trail”
Hance Creek lies below.
Horseshoe Mesa is out there.
Follow this rockslide through the Coconino.
The route from the rim begins in the gully on the left side of this photo, and switches to the rockslide in the gully on the right side of the center Kaibab tower.
A cairn! No way!
A path for me to follow? Not for long.
The Redwall fin is in the middle of this photo. The break is on the right(east) side of it.
Late June! Hot!
one of the obstacles in upper Hance Creek, below the Redwall
Vishnu Temple peeks above the horizon.
This is thought to be the remains of a corral at John Hance’s winter camp.
Wotan’s Throne
The northernmost tip of the Sinking Ship splits Hance Creek.
There are some old inscriptions just south of the place where Tonto Trail crosses the creekbed, in cliffs on the west side.
…and then there are a few others that aren’t so old.
Angels Gate
Don’t miss the second half of this day, where I go on to descend Hance Creek to Sockdolager Rapid, spend the night, weather a monsoon, and hike out the Grandview Trail.
